Haven’t had a chance to read Part One of the history of trousers? See HERE how it all began. If you have, here are now short histories of the most well-known types of trousers! Surely you have some of these in your wardrobe too!
CHINO TROUSERS
The birth of chino trousers, legend has it, takes us back to 1848. India, being a British colony, saw the commander of the stationed troops, Harry Burnett Lumsden, come up with the brilliant idea to dye the white trousers of his soldiers’ uniforms with a mixture of coffee, curry powder, and mulberry juice, in order to cover the ever-present dirt on the fabric. The Indians called this new color khaki, meaning “dyed earth.” But the word chino has a different origin. It seems that cotton trousers produced in England, exported to China, were further exported by the Chinese to the Philippines, where American military troops (1934–1946) were stationed, who named the trousers after their “Chinese” origin, hence chino.
AMERICAN vs. EUROPEAN
Speaking of America… American trousers resemble the English ones, but are wider, following the sack suit model. (Don’t know what a sack suit is and how it came to be? Take a look at the history of the suit HERE.) The purpose of a Brit is to be properly dressed in his suit; the purpose of an Italian is to shine in society in his suit; the American, however, uses the suit exclusively in the business environment and at the office. (For more details about business attire, see HERE.)
CUFFED TROUSERS
Cuffs on trousers are not as common in British tailoring as they are on the European continent. It is unknown who invented cuffed trousers, but legend attributes their creation to King Edward VII, grandfather of the Duke of Windsor. Originally, cuffs had a functional role, protecting the ankle from dust and splashes of rain. Cuffs are relatively versatile, but due to their more relaxed appearance, wearing them with a tuxedo or morning coat is debatable. Cuffed trousers are not recommended for shorter men, as the cuffs give the impression of even shorter legs; conversely, on a tall and slender man, cuffs create a grounded appearance. In principle, cuffed trousers should not have creases. The width of the cuff is closely related to the circumference of the leg, but generally measures 3.5–4 cm, the same as the waistband. (Cuffed vs. uncuffed trousers, see image.)
PINSTRIPE TROUSERS
Originally, the pinstripe on trousers appeared by pure chance. During a yacht cruise, the Duke of Wales’ butler (the future King Edward VIII) folded the trousers incorrectly, creating a crease. Nobody suspected then that this would, over time, become a symbol of masculine elegance. Today, wool is the ideal candidate for pinstripe trousers. Most patterns accept a pinstripe (see image).
CARGO TROUSERS
Cargo trousers were initially the preferred garment of painters. They entered men’s fashion after World War II. Today, they are available both in the long version and the shorter version (bermuda).
DENIM TROUSERS
Jeans were invented in 19th-century California for miners and gold seekers because they are durable, practical, and comfortable. They entered urban fashion only in the 1950s thanks to actor James Dean, who wore them in films with a slightly worn T-shirt. Cotton, and thus denim, expresses masculinity and firmness, which is why a high percentage of Lycra in the composition should be avoided.
Just as, in the past, restricted categories of women wore trousers on special occasions, today, restricted categories of men still wear skirts: the Scottish kilt, the fustanella of Greek and Albanian soldiers, the Malaysian sarong. Likewise, certain professional groups prefer loose clothing, such as the clergy’s anteri or magistrates’ robes.
Which type of trousers do you prefer? Find more inspiration HERE.
