What You Need to Know When Getting a Made-to-Measure Suit

In this article, I’ll explain the four things you need to do when going to order a suit, for the ideal result. Find out the aspects it’s crucial to keep in mind: 

1. Negotiate with yourself before you go
Why is it important to know what you want before you step into the tailor’s? Because otherwise you’ll be at the mercy of the moment and might choose poorly. So, if it’s your first time — especially for an event or ceremony suit — do your homework! How do you prepare? Look up information on what would suit you, like the model or fabric color. You don’t need to become an expert, but it’s good to have a general idea about your future suit. And yes, set your budget! There’s no one-size-fits-all advice here, but to give you a sense of balance: a man should spend as much on his shoes as on his suit.

2. Choose fabric from verified stock
If you’ve decided to place an order, here are three reasons to choose fabric from the stock recommended by your consultant / tailor. First: They’re verified fabrics. If they’re in stock, it means the tailor has already worked with them and knows them well. No surprises. Second: They’re about 25% cheaper, since he probably bought them in bulk — so you don’t pay extra for shipping, which is usually substantial. Third: The suit takes less time to make, because the fabric is already available.

3. Communicate as clearly as possible what you want
Since this is a visual field, it’s tough for a client to explain in plain (non-technical) language what he wants and for the tailor to fully get it! So, prepare images. I know it’s hard to find exact pictures of the cut you want or the color of fabric you’re after, but they’ll help enormously in your dialogue with the tailor. Images are great for illustrating details you don’t know how to name otherwise.

4. Make sure you’re measured correctly
Stand as naturally as possible! I know you’ll be tempted to straighten your back and puff your chest when you look in the mirror, but the truth is your natural posture is the one you’re in 99% of the time. And if you don’t stand naturally during fittings, creases will show up in the jacket later.

BONUS! 8 details to watch when your tailor is measuring you:

  • Jacket length
    For an elegant outfit, the jacket should cover your seat completely, even if you’re short.

  • Sleeve length
    The jacket sleeve should let the shirt cuff peek out 1.5–2 centimeters.

  • No creases in the lapels
    No matter how snug you want the jacket to feel, lapels should never crease when you button the waist.

  • No shoulders sticking out
    Your shoulders shouldn’t poke out from under the jacket’s “shoulders.” That makes it look too small.

  • No straining buttons
    I know many men overestimate themselves and cinch the jacket too tightly at the waist, but it’s not a good look. The buttons should close comfortably, without creases around them.

  • Pants shouldn’t hold you back
    You should be able to sit down without discomfort.

  • Pant length is simple
    If they fall without creases but touch the shoe in both front and back, that’s ideal. Don’t overthink it — pants will drop a little anyway when worn.

  • Make sure the tailor knows your deadline
    If you’ve got a set deadline, double-check the tailor has clearly understood it too.

SUCCESS!