The history of men's trousers is lost in the mists of time. Admired by some cultures but despised by others, trousers still marked a turning point in the development of clothing items. Among the Persians and Scythians, they were very common, as they helped with horseback riding. Among the Romans, however, trousers were considered a barbarian attribute, which is why they wore draped fabrics in the shape of a skirt. In the Middle Ages, knightly orders wore chainmail trousers out of the need for protection. Later, after the Renaissance, Western aristocratic men replaced wide breeches with the fitted leggings familiar from The Three Musketeers films. Yet when did trousers become a symbol of refined masculinity, as we know them today?
Did you know? Linguistically, the Romanian word pantalon comes from the Neo-Greek pantalóni. Culturally, trousers are directly linked to the history of theater. In old Italian comedies, there was often a character named Pantaleone, distinguished by his long, wide pants.
Today, trousers are a garment supported at the waist, tailored with hems or cuffs, pockets, pleats, and a waistband. This article of clothing became socially accepted in Western Europe around the 1850s. As an imported fashion, it reached Romania as well, quickly replacing the Turco-Byzantine garments preferred for centuries by the Phanariot boyars. Those older around the time of the 1848 Revolution called the young bonjourists pantalonari—the duelists, those who adopted Western fashion. It was an era when the concept of the dandy had reached Romania, though translators somewhat pejoratively replaced it with the term filfizon (< Fr. vive le son [du canon]).
And now, a little classification! Depending on cut, material, or intended use, there are: puffed trousers, cargo pants, chinos, baggy trousers, skinny / pencil trousers, trapeze / elephant-leg trousers, capri / fishing / three-quarter trousers, bermuda shorts, short trousers, five-pocket trousers, high-waisted trousers, low-waisted trousers, drop-crotch trousers, cuffed trousers, pinstripe trousers, sweatpants, golf trousers, ski trousers.
Fun facts! On trousers with a waistband, there is often a small slit at the back, in the center, called the after dinner split in British tailoring. This allows the trousers to expand slightly after a hearty meal (see image). Have you noticed it? Trousers’ pockets are also classified following British tradition: ticket pocket, watch pocket, coin pocket.
Are you passionate about the history of trousers and want to know how they evolved closer to the present day? Read Part Two HERE.
