Autumn is knocking at the door, and it pays to be ready. In the cold season, the overcoat remains the first calling card of any well-groomed gentleman. It is the first garment to be noticed and the shield between the wearer and the elements. Although many men treat the subject lightly, we believe that with the arrival of autumn the overcoat becomes a priority. Here, then, are the main styles of overcoat and a few pairing tips, so that each man can see for himself which suits him best.

1. The Crombie: who does it suit, and when?

It is the classic English overcoat: straight-cut and navy. The style is more than a century old. Made from heavy wool cloth, the Crombie is especially suited to the grey months of autumn and winter. Almost every made-to-measure and bespoke maker includes it in their core range, in its original form or slightly modified. It is the most understated of overcoats, which makes it ideal for evening wear and for funerals.

2. The Chesterfield: what makes it so versatile?

The style established itself in British society as early as the 19th century, when only the wealthy could afford expensive overcoats. There are single- and double-breasted Chesterfields, in beige, blue and black. Most men choose the single-breasted version in herringbone wool cloth. It is recognisable by its slanted flap pockets and its collar, usually in velvet. It has a breast pocket, with room for a pocket square. As an understated style, the Chesterfield fits easily into daytime outfits, business included, as well as evening wear.

3. The British Warm: where does it come from, and how is it worn?

The name gives away its origin. It began as a military coat but later crossed over into civilian life. Made from heavy wool or cashmere, it is as warm as it is refined. It is recognisable by its decorative epaulettes (a military remnant) and by the fact that it is always double-breasted. Modern versions, however, often leave out the epaulettes. The British Warm is a versatile style, often in earthy shades, ideal for daytime outfits of moderate formality.

4. The loden coat: which occasions and outfits call for it?

Loden is a thick, coarse, almost waterproof wool cloth from the Tyrol that has spread throughout Europe. The coat of the same name is made exclusively from this cloth, in khaki green. It is recognisable by its characteristic straight, single-breasted cut. It resists water, wind and the hazards of the wild, such as branches and thorns. A spartan style, the loden suits tweeds, fisherman’s jumpers and ribbed cloths.

5. The polo coat: what qualifies it for smart casual?

The polo coat is an American classic that takes its name from the sport. Brooks Brothers imported the style into England at the start of the last century, which brought it even greater popularity. Large patch pockets give it a relaxed look, though modern versions have set-in pockets. The ideal cloths come in navy, cream or brown (plain or checked). It is recognisable by its belt, which may buckle or simply tie. It is an excellent style for daytime outfits, especially smart casual.

6. The duffle coat: who does it suit best?

The duffle is the most casual style on our list. It is essentially a short coat of thick wool melton with a military history, worn by Royal Navy officers in the Second World War. After the war, civilians turned to shorter, more practical coats borrowed from hunting and the military. That is how the duffle entered the market, where it quickly gained a wave of popularity. It is recognisable by its hood, patch pockets and toggles in place of buttons. It is a youthful style, usually in cream wool, perfect for relaxed, informal outfits. Today it also comes in brown, olive green or navy. For shorter men, the duffle is ideal, as it makes the legs look longer.

In short, the overcoat should be a natural extension of the outfit. It should match the chosen dress code and complement the outfit. A well-chosen overcoat underlines the wearer’s personality and his attention to detail. Our list does not exhaust the full range, but it covers the most important styles. The only question left is how many of them already hang in the wardrobe.