Investing in premium clothing (jacket, trousers, overcoat and shoes) is justified by cost per wear (CPW), an indicator showing that two suits at 5,000 RON each, worn over six years, yield a CPW of 33 RON, against 100 RON for cheap suits replaced every year. This article explains how much work goes into each piece, how long it takes to make and why quality proves more advantageous in the long run.
1. The premium jacket: how to calculate cost per wear
The jacket is the centrepiece of a premium wardrobe. Its price varies by brand or by the tailor’s reputation. In general, however, a properly made jacket costs three times as much as the trousers (when they belong to the same suit). Investing in a quality jacket is more than a financial calculation: it is a sustainable choice. Two premium suits bought once every six years, though more expensive, last longer than two cheap suits bought every year. The paradox is that they also come out cheaper, judged by cost per wear (CPW). CPW offers a pragmatic view of a garment’s real value. Take a hypothetical example. Investing 5,000 RON in each of two premium suits once every six years means spending 10,000 RON. Assuming each suit is worn about 25 times a year, that comes to 150 wears per suit over the period, for a CPW of 33.3 RON. By comparison, buying two suits a year at 1,000 RON each adds up to 12,000 RON over six years. If each suit is worn about 10 times a year, the CPW comes to 100 RON. Is the investment worth it? Beyond saving money in the long run, premium suits offer a superior look, a better cut and lasting durability, which justify the investment. As for making time, when the jacket is produced semi-automatically (by hand and machine), an order can take three to four weeks, since it must pass through several different machines for distinct operations (sewing, topstitching, overlocking and so on).
2. Simplified Bespoke trousers: quality versus ready-to-wear
Trousers can be made at different levels of complexity. The tailor can produce simple or more sophisticated models. Trousers may have a high rise and a deep waistband, without belt loops. Double front pleats can be added for a touch of style, and some models have a split at the back, known as the after-dinner split. Other details include a concealed ticket pocket and turn-ups at the hem. The more complications the trousers have, the less likely they are to be made industrially. Still, as with the jacket, cost per wear makes the choice easier. Rather than buying three pairs of ready-to-wear trousers a year, it is better to buy one made-to-measure pair every three years. This kind of antithetical comparison shows what a quality garment is really worth.
3. The premium overcoat: why it costs as much as a whole suit
Anyone who has invested in a quality overcoat knows it does not come cheap. There are several reasons. First, an overcoat reaching to the knee, or even below, requires a lot of cloth. Second, thick natural-fibre cloths (wool, cashmere, various blends) are usually expensive. Third, the various reinforcements (shoulder pads) or a fine silk lining add to the price. As for making time, a few weeks is to be expected, depending on the complexity of the design. A trench coat, for example, takes longer to make than a loden. The fair price of a quality overcoat, built to last decades, should equal the price of the suit worn beneath it. That may seem costly, but the good news for clothes enthusiasts on a tighter budget is that second-hand shops (especially abroad, though not only) hide small treasures when it comes to vintage overcoats. It is a treasure hunt worth the effort, which is why it pays to befriend tailors or people in the trade. There is no knowing what valuable tips they may offer.
4. Goodyear-welted shoes: investment or expense?
Quality shoes are essential to a premium wardrobe. A self-respecting man, Cary Grant said, spends as much on his shoes as on his suit. Why? Because by quality shoes, an enthusiast means Goodyear-welted shoes, that is, shoes stitched to a welt. Without going into technicalities, the benefit of welted shoes is that once the sole wears out, they can be resoled. In a consumption-driven society, it seems far more convenient to throw shoes away as soon as they are worn. The refined man, however, who stands by the values of tradition, knows it is more advantageous in the long run, aesthetically and economically, to invest in a pair of shoes that takes on something of his style and personality. The good news is that most Goodyear-welted shoemakers, in Europe and the United States, offer after-sales resoling. When the time comes, the shoes simply go back to the factory, and the maker undertakes to repair them with original materials, usually for a third of the shoes’ price. The making time for an MTO (made-to-order) pair is about 45 days. That may seem long, but for a personalised pair, the entire production line must stop, and the shoes must pass through several different machines in the process (closing the uppers, lasting, welt stitching and so on).
In conclusion, every premium piece reflects work and carefully chosen materials. Making times vary with the complexity of each model, because craft takes time. The prices quoted reflect the effort and quality of the investment. Choosing these pieces and wearing them with confidence tells a flattering story about the wearer. Investing in premium clothing, then, proves advantageous in the long run.
