Any man would agree that the tie remains one of the few outlets for male coquetry. Men’s ties come in 5 essential styles: black, grenadine, striped, neat-patterned and knitted. This article describes the 5 styles and the rules that govern each. Together they form a foundation that cannot fail. But first, a brief history of the tie.

1. Where does the tie come from, and how has it evolved?

The first scarf-ties in history can be seen around the necks of the soldiers on Trajan’s Column. During the Thirty Years’ War, Louis XIV of France assembled a cavalry regiment of Croats. As a distinguishing mark, these horsemen wore bands of cloth tied at the neck, which the French, by a figure of speech, named “croate” after their wearers. Through a phonetic shift, the word then became “cravate”, forever linking the accessory to the Croatian people. The new accessory spread in the 19th century, worn and popularised by figures such as James Belcher and Beau Brummell. By the end of the century, the tie was already a symbol of membership of English clubs. And after the First World War, it took the shape we know today. Today, Drake’s in London, E. Marinella in Naples and Charvet in Paris remain the most celebrated tie makers of the Old Continent. Although the pandemic accelerated the decline of the tie, it remains essential at many events in a man’s life. Job interviews, weddings, funerals, festive dinners, family gatherings and business meetings all call, in theory at least, for a tie.

2. The black tie: what does it stand for, and why is it indispensable?

It is the most formal of ties. Its character lies in its understated colour. It is recommended for evening wear, such as galas, ceremonies and festivities of all kinds. During the day, it is worn at funerals, or by the bodyguards of dignitaries. It is the tie a man will wear least often, yet no wardrobe should be without one. That is why it is worth investing in a hand-made piece in matte silk. Such exclusive services exist in Romania too.

3. The grenadine tie: why is it, in fact, the most elegant?

Grenadine is a special silk weave, produced mainly in Italy. It makes the most elegant ties. The complexity of its production gives these ties an above-average price. Grenadine ties come in a wide range of designs, but the most common are plain, in navy or dark grey. Grenadine suits any formal or semi-formal dress code. Our clients in business, the corporate world and academia greatly appreciate grenadine ties.

4. The striped tie: what does it say about the wearer’s affiliations?

It comes from the world of the British aristocracy. The particular stripes once indicated membership of a club, a regiment or a profession, such as the Royal Navy or the merchant navy. The original British pattern has stripes running from the left shoulder down to the right hip (meaning “from heart to sword”). The American version, in a bid to innovate, reverses the direction: from the right shoulder to the left hip. Whichever is chosen, the striped tie is ideal for business formal and smart casual outfits. The colour of the stripes also guides the choice of pocket square. The safest option is to match the pocket square to the shirt.

5. The neat tie: why does it offer the most versatility?

Neats are any small, regular geometric pattern (pin dots, polka dots, teardrops or Macclesfield). The right choice is a pattern discreet enough not to tire the eye. That leaves room to be a little bolder with the patterns of the jacket and shirt, if the mood takes him. Of all the styles, the neat tie is perhaps the quickest route to versatile outfits.

6. The knitted tie: when and how does it fit into an outfit?

It is the most casual of ties. Originally, it was worn on trips out of town, in rustic settings. Cheaper than expensive silk ties, it was within reach of men on modest budgets. Today it has become a chic piece for the urban man, a quick way to complete an outfit. Knitted ties can be made of synthetic fibres, cotton or silk. They stand out for their unique texture. They go with checked jackets, small-check shirts, cardigans, corduroy trousers, jeans and light shoes. Another advantage: they do not crease. Tip: always a simple knot (four-in-hand). Since the tie is already thick, a more complex knot looks clumsy at the neck. Another tip: tie bars and tie pins are best avoided. They are a mark of formal elegance, and the knitted tie sits at the opposite pole.

The tie, then, is the accessory that both exudes and commands respect. It says a great deal about the mood in which a man presents himself in public. A well-chosen tie can give a suit an unexpected twist. Any man can pull on a suit, but the choice of accessories, and above all of the tie, is what sets him apart.