Today, the man still learning the ropes has free access to information and can educate himself. Yet the tradition of classic dress took two centuries of small accumulations to arrive at today’s refined rules. Unfortunately, men who rush the process miss the details that separate a well-dressed gentleman from a Christmas tree. This article inventories 5 major mistakes, the very ones our clients always thank us for pointing out. They are worth bearing in mind with any favourite jacket.
1. Are the label and basting threads still in place?
A strikingly common error. The white basting threads the tailor puts in hold the cut parts of the jacket (the sleeves, the vent) in place, so that they survive transport. They are not decorative and should come out as soon as the jacket is in its owner’s hands. The label on the sleeve must also be removed. It exists only to help shop staff organise their stock by brand.
2. Sneakers for absolutely every occasion?
Sneakers are enjoying their moment of glory. That does not mean they go with any jacket, on any occasion. Leather sneakers in black, navy and white are the most versatile and discreet. Even so, they are best avoided with formal daytime outfits, and above all with evening wear. The shoes must suit the jacket, and the jacket the dress code. And most importantly: socks. Even with the most casual sport jacket, a bare ankle is a gesture best left to the ladies.
3. Is the pocket square often forgotten?
A pressed shirt and a well-chosen pocket square are what separate a boy from a man. Most gentlemen forget to put one in the breast pocket, and the outfit is left incomplete. The pocket square strengthens the look of the whole and, like the tie, hints at the wearer’s mood. A related error is a pocket square from the same set as the tie. It betrays a lack of care and patience in the choice of a complementary square.
4. The wrong trousers with the jacket?
This mistake is closely tied to the season. The trousers should, as far as possible, be of the same material as the jacket. Jeans are the exception that proves the rule. But a tweed jacket with linen trousers, or a linen jacket with heavy corduroys, is a mistake many men make regularly. Why? Perhaps in pursuit of an exotic mix. It deserves a second thought.
5. Too many accessories?
As mentioned above, rushing the process does not only mean missing elements. Sometimes it means superfluous ones. An outfit loaded with every accessory in the drawer reveals a misunderstanding of the “dandy”. A creative outfit can come from a minimal number of accessories, combined with common sense. Too many accessories in the upper half of the outfit throw the lower half off balance. A gentleman’s accessories are the tie, belt, watch, cufflinks, pocket square, sunglasses and lapel pin. Four per outfit is the limit.
These are the 5 most common mistakes every gentleman should avoid. Many men may find them “too trivial” to deserve attention, but sartorial refinement is a process. It means a continuous effort to understand the rules of dress so that they can (perhaps) be broken later. Never the other way round.
