Every man needs a few pairs of jeans in his wardrobe. They temper an overly formal outfit and lend a masculine air. Originally, jeans were work trousers worn by sailors and dockers, and later by the gold prospectors and miners of 19th-century California. So were born the trousers that millions wear today. After the Second World War, Hollywood actors helped popularise them. Rich as their history is, jeans have also fallen victim to fast fashion. Even some public figures imply that any kind of jeans is fit to wear. At ZAVATE, we draw a clear line between the heritage of classic jeans and today’s caricatures of them. Below are 5 styles to steer clear of, however great the temptation.
1. Ripped jeans: what do they say about the wearer?
Ripped jeans were once a sign that the wearer had been set upon by thieves or mauled by dogs on the way. Although meant to convey teenage rebellion, they look utterly careless and are incompatible with the staples of a stylish man’s wardrobe, such as the shirt, the sport jacket and the tie. At most, a discreet tear is acceptable, though we have our reservations even about that.
2. Skin-tight jeans: made more for women?
As mentioned, jeans were born as an exclusively male garment. Their later migration into the women’s wardrobe raised the proportion of elastane in their composition. That allowed ever tighter cuts. Skin-tight cuts therefore convey an effeminate air and contradict the original purpose of jeans.
3. Jeans that are too long: what is the fix?
Overlong jeans are men’s most common mistake. Some more fastidious men have them shortened by a tailor. This is a debatable compromise, however, since all pre-washed jeans have a “worn” look at the hem. Cut it off, and the detail is lost, along with the coherence of the whole. The best solution is a turned-up hem worn with boots, for a decidedly masculine look.
4. Drop-crotch jeans: why are they a caricature?
Popularised by some hip-hop artists, this style is another caricature of classic jeans. Drop-crotch jeans are incompatible with the pieces that make up the dress codes well-groomed gentlemen follow (business formal, smart casual).
5. Coloured jeans: why is the denim palette so restrictive?
Pink, orange, green and even white jeans have established themselves in recent years as an apparent alternative to chinos. Yet the palette of denim is more restrictive than that of cotton twill. The reason is the rougher texture of denim itself, which harmonises only with cool colours such as black, navy or grey.
Ripped, skin-tight, overlong, drop-crotch and coloured jeans, then, make up our list of modern variations on the classic that are best avoided. All the better not to fall prey, through carelessness or ignorance, to failed sartorial experiments.
