The made-to-measure shirt by ZAVATE offers 10 major advantages over mass-produced shirts. From the measurements and the split yoke to bronze collar stays, stitch density and mother-of-pearl buttons, every detail adds up to a shirt that faithfully follows the silhouette and stands the test of time. A good shirt outlasts three cheap ones, which brings the cost per wear down.
1. How was the men’s shirt born?
The shirt is the universal garment, indispensable in any wardrobe. Yet above all, it defines masculinity. The shirt began its career as an undergarment, which is why it could not be shown in public, and it was pulled on over the head. It later evolved into pieces rich in lace. Only after 1870 did the version with front buttons and a turn-down collar appear, in ever finer fabrics (poplin, batiste, oxford, piqué, Sea Island cotton).
2. Why do the measurements matter?
No body is anatomically perfect. For big and tall men, things get even more complicated. That is why careful measurements guarantee that the future shirt will faithfully follow the line of the silhouette. There are 6 essential measurements a tailor must take care of: the circumference of the chest, waist, hips and neck, the length of each arm measured separately, and the width of the back.
3. What are removable collar stays for?
A good shirt reveals itself at the collar. Its shape gives the front of the shirt its character. For extra stiffness, a quality collar has small pockets on its underside. These hold the removable stays, usually plastic, though we recommend bronze ones. Stays keep the collar line clean and stop the points from curling up. This matters most when the shirt is worn with a tie.
4. What does a split yoke do?
It may sound odd, but most people have one shoulder higher than the other. The role of the yoke is to adapt the cut of the shirt precisely to the wearer’s build. A yoke cut in two pieces (joined at the centre) disguises that asymmetry between the shoulders. Some master shirtmakers can cut a one-piece yoke that still looks right. But they are hard to find, so the choice of maker deserves care.
5. Why does pattern matching at the seams matter?
Matching stripes or checks where the parts of the shirt meet (yoke, collar, sleeves, cuffs) is essential to visual harmony. As a rule, only made-to-measure shirts deliver this, since it takes more fabric.
6. What difference does cuff orientation make?
The cuff is another defining element. On mass-market shirts, the cuff runs on from the sleeve (vertically), whereas on custom-made shirts, it sits perpendicular to the sleeve (horizontally). The single cuff, fastened with buttons, suits informal occasions. The double (French) cuff, held with cufflinks, belongs rather to formal ones. Some ateliers also offer convertible cuffs, which can be fastened either way.
7. Stitch density: how many stitches are enough?
The more stitches a seam has, the more durable it will be. On double parallel seams (on the placket), a short stitch length keeps the fabric between the seams from puckering after washing. The minimum to look for is 7 to 8 stitches per centimetre.
8. Why mother-of-pearl buttons?
A quality shirt calls for mother-of-pearl buttons. Mother-of-pearl is so hard it can break a sewing machine needle. Hence our recommendation: durable buttons, sewn on by hand, as a mark of quality.
9. The shirt gusset: a little-known detail?
Many men have never noticed this detail, even though it has been at their side all along. That small triangle of fabric joining the back of the shirt to the front matters. Why? It reinforces the point where front and back meet. Off-the-peg shirts invariably leave it out. How many men have spotted it before now?
10. Where should a monogram go?
The shirt monogram, as a mark of identification, was very common in the past. Today it survives among men with an eye for detail. It can be sewn by hand or embroidered by computer. It is placed either just below the heart, as the English and Italian schools prefer, or on the cuff, as the American school suggests. An analysis of orders over the past seven years shows that 22% of ZAVATE clients ordered shirts only, while 35% bought a suit and shirt in the same order. Almost all of them chose to have their monogram added.
11. Addresses worth knowing: where to go in London?
For a city break in London with a wardrobe refresh in mind, one rule of thumb is worth remembering. The houses on and around Savile Row specialise in bespoke suits, including Henry Poole & Co., H. Huntsman & Sons, Dege & Skinner and Gieves & Hawkes, with Anderson & Sheppard just around the corner on Old Burlington Street. Jermyn Street, for its part, specialises in custom shirts and shoes, with addresses including Turnbull & Asser, New & Lingwood, Harvie & Hudson, Hilditch & Key and Thomas Pink.
These, then, are the essentials to insist on when the next shirt is ordered. The difference is felt on the skin, quite literally. And once a man has felt the advantages of a custom-made garment, he never goes back to off-the-peg.
