Creased, shiny, stiff suits two sizes too big are a familiar sight. Whether at a wedding, a society event or in the corporate world, men’s sartorial mistakes keep coming back. This article explains why measure, motif and material (in that order) are the three Ms that matter most. Above all when a wedding or event suit is bought ready-to-wear.
1. How can one tell a suit is cut to the right measure?
Measure is the first thing the eye catches. The motif becomes clear up close, and the material only reveals itself to the touch. Measure, however, shows from across the room. So it pays to know one’s measurements well before any clothing purchase. For a perfect look, the suit should faithfully follow the silhouette of the body.
Then come the sleeves. As a rule, the shirt cuff should show 2 centimetres beyond the jacket sleeve. Why? For symmetry with the shirt collar.
Next, the length of the jacket. Both a sport jacket and a suit jacket should normally cover the seat completely. A detail no stylish man overlooks.
Then a glance at the back. A jacket that is too big creates ripples at the base of the neck, just below the collar, from the excess fabric.
Then the front view. Is there an hourglass effect? If not, the jacket is too loose and needs taking in at the waist.
Last but not least, the trousers. There should be no more than a slight break where they meet the shoe. “Concertina” trousers (with multiple folds at the hem) are a sign that they need shortening by a tailor.
Ideally, the trousers should stay in place at the waist with no need for a belt. A belt “cuts” the outfit in two and breaks its harmony. Originally, a man’s outfit rested solely on his head (the hat) and his shoulders (the braces). The belt at the waist was meant for the soldier’s weapons and the workman’s tools.
2. How should a man choose the motif of his suit?
The motif expresses the wearer’s mood and personality, but it can also disguise the body’s small shortcomings. A striped suit makes a man look taller, while a checked one creates an impression of width. The reverse also applies. A tall, slender man should avoid stripes, just as a short, broad man should avoid checks.
A suit is a man’s armour, and he can make it work for him. Context, of course, is everything. In a corporate setting, or with frequent business meetings, wide stripes on navy cloth are a must. They are a sign of authority that never misses. Since the 1980s, the striped suits known as power suits have been seen as a symbol of capitalism in the Western business world.
A society event at the weekend is another matter. There, more creativity is welcome. Still, for a harmonious result, large and small motifs call for careful combination. Our recommendation: motifs that grow in scale the further they sit from the body. A small motif on the shirt, a medium one on the tie and a large one on the jacket.
3. Which materials separate elegance from kitsch?
Material is what separates an affected dandy from a true gentleman. Polyester cloths shine, smell unpleasant, feel stiff and stop the body from breathing naturally. In such a suit, a man overheats in summer and shivers in winter. What to buy, then? Wool cloth, first and foremost. All-season wool remains the most versatile and works as a natural insulator. In summer, linen, cotton or fresco are also worth considering. In winter, we suggest tweed or corduroy.
Finally, this is no place for thrift. A suit in natural fibres costs more than one made of “plastic”. What is cheap is not good, and what is good is not cheap. Is there such a thing as quality at an accessible price? Sometimes, or so we dreamed at ZAVATE when we created the Simplified Bespoke service. Our process is described here, for anyone curious whether it fits.
To conclude, a British principle worth remembering: if a new suit looks “new” on its wearer, the tailor has not done his job properly. A suit should look like a natural part of the man who wears it. And the effect takes little effort. Measure, motif and material: three Ms are all it takes.
