A poor-quality suit gives itself away through 8 clear signs. They are shiny synthetic fibres, a polyester lining, fused lapels that fold at a sharp angle, bubbles on the chest, large armholes, shoulders that extend past the natural line, thin tone-on-tone buttons and no spare fabric in the trousers. At ZAVATE, we check these details systematically on every order, because they make the difference between a suit that lasts and one that disappoints from the first wear.
1. What is the first rule regarding fabric?
Synthetic fibres are best avoided. They are shiny, stiff, make the wearer sweat and, importantly, are not biodegradable. Natural fibres, such as sheep’s wool, are the better choice. For variety, and a budget that allows it, there are goat fibres (cashmere, mohair), llama-family fibres (alpaca, vicuña) and rabbit hair (angora). Labels from two-ply to eight-ply indicate how many strands have been twisted into the yarn. They deserve attention.
2. What is the lining of a cheap suit made of?
Cheap linings are often made of polyester, acrylic or polyamide, in other words a kind of plastic. They cause overheating. Worse still, on top of the thermal discomfort, they produce that telltale rustle with every movement. They also pill. Such linings are best avoided, especially by men with sensitive skin or trouble regulating body temperature.
3. What should the lapels of a good jacket look like?
A quality lapel should roll gently. Lapels folded at a sharp angle, however, look like a sheet of paper creased in two. This happens because the interlining between cloth and lining has been heat-pressed with adhesive. The test is simple: when the cloth and the lining are pulled in opposite directions, a sound like peeling glue gives the game away. Such a jacket looks “flat”, two-dimensional, without relief or depth.
4. What causes those unsightly bubbles on the chest?
Bubbles across the chest are a side effect of fused interlining. Raindrops and a poorly chosen dry cleaner using harsh chemicals are both enemies to fear. All of them can weaken the adhesive that holds the jacket together.
5. What happens when the armholes are too large?
It looks bad and causes considerable discomfort. Large armholes are a legacy of old tailoring patterns never adapted to modern aesthetic standards. The detail not only looks sloppy but also restricts movement. In practice, a raised arm lifts the whole jacket with it.
6. How important are the shoulders of a jacket?
The shoulders (as a tailoring term, not an anatomical one) are decisive in a jacket. Why? Because they are among the few structural elements a tailor cannot alter. So they need to fit right from the start. Shoulder pads that extend beyond the natural line of the shoulder look bad and recall the epaulettes of military uniforms.
7. How can buttons of dubious quality be spotted?
Thin buttons that match the cloth tone for tone? Chances are they are as cheap as they look. The good news is that they are easy to replace with something better. Horn or mother-of-pearl buttons are our standard recommendation.
8. Do suit trousers have spare fabric at the hem?
Only self-respecting makers leave a few centimetres of spare fabric in the trousers. A cheap manufacturer, keen to cut production costs as far as possible, keeps fabric use to the bare minimum. A look behind the hem of the trousers shows how much has been left in reserve for the wearer.
In short, the quality of a suit can be judged by the attention paid to detail. From natural fabrics and horn buttons to the cut of the shoulders and the spare fabric in the trousers, these details separate a good suit from a sartorial disappointment. Without plastic and adhesive, a suit stands the test of time.
