Fathers no longer leave their shoes to their sons as an inheritance, a custom that survived until the mid-20th century. Footwear is nonetheless one of the most important items in a man’s wardrobe. It speaks of the wearer’s taste and social standing. From the wear on the sole, a good cobbler can tell how the foot moves with each step. A man’s tread even hints at whether he is an introvert or an extrovert. Few people know it. A self-respecting man, Cary Grant used to say, spends as much on his shoes as on his suit.
1. What are patent leather shoes, and where are they worn?
This article looks at patent leather shoes in the context of the wedding suit. They are, in essence, a type of wholecut made from leather coated with a glossy, water-repellent finish. That is what makes their elegance and refinement stand out at once. Patent leather shoes are above all the hallmark of the black tie dress code. Weddings, galas and ceremonies are just some of the events that call for them. But are patent leather shoes the only possible choice, or is there a wider range of options? Many men complain of their drawbacks: 1) they are not versatile, 2) they cannot be polished with cream, 3) they are too sophisticated. For those who agree, here are three styles that successfully replace patent leather.
2. Black wholecuts: when do they take the place of patent leather?
After patent leather, they are the dressiest shoes there are. Their classic, timeless design qualifies them for any formal event. Their defining feature is the absence of any seams (apart from the unavoidable one at the heel). Sometimes the shoe carries a decorative medallion on the toe, for an extra touch of taste. The one small drawback: since it is cut from a single piece, creases in the leather are more noticeable. The outfit should be entirely black, textile accessories included.
3. Black Oxfords: why are they the most versatile?
They are ultra-formal lace-up shoes with closed lacing. The quarters are stitched beneath the vamp and close over the tongue, so the foot is “dressed” on all sides. In England they are called Oxfords, in the United States Balmorals. One distinctive feature is the absence of any decorative perforations. A second is the crupon leather sole and the stacked leather heel. A third is the 270° welt, recognisable because it ends where the heel begins. The great advantage of Oxfords is that they can be worn at the office, at formal events and even at funerals (impossible with patent leather). The outfit should be entirely black, textile accessories included.
4. Quarter brogues: when are they the more flexible choice?
To any enthusiast, brogueing means the decorative perforations punched into the leather. The more perforations a shoe has, the more casual it is, and vice versa. Black quarter brogues are formal, a shade more flexible than the classic Oxford. The difference lies in a discreet line of perforations separating the toe cap from the rest of the shoe. The outfit should still be entirely black, though textile accessories may add colour.
Patent leather, then, is not the only option for a wedding suit. Our mission at ZAVATE is to show the Romanian man that there are always alternatives. This article has presented just three of them. There are, of course, others.
