The occasion suit is defined by 6 often overlooked technical elements: the drop, the lapels, the vents, the buttonholes, the lining and the pockets. Each has a direct bearing on cut, comfort and formality. At ZAVATE, we have been cutting occasion suits for almost a decade, and we know it is precisely these details that separate a jacket that looks good from one that truly does its wearer justice.
1. What is the drop, and how does it shape the silhouette?
Few Romanian men know what the drop is. The line of a jacket is set by its drop, the difference between the chest and the waist. A drop 6 means a comfortable cut, while a drop 4 means a piece fuller at the hips. A drop 7 gives a shaped cut, and a drop 8 a slim-fit suit. The drop is a necessity in industrial tailoring, which must cover a wide range of figures. Made-to-measure tailoring knows no such constraints.
2. How is the right lapel width chosen?
The lapel was born when the two fronts of the jacket, once buttoned up to the neck, were folded back. On handmade suits, the lapel rolls gently. On off-the-peg suits, however, it forms a sharp angle with the jacket, exactly like a sheet of paper folded in two. Lapel width has varied a great deal over time, but today 8 to 9 centimetres is the optimum. Still, nothing is set in stone: the secret is a harmonious proportion between lapels and shoulders. With a tie, its width should match that of the lapels, for symmetry’s sake.
3. Single or double vent: which suits whom?
The vent, the opening at the back, gives the jacket freedom of movement. A suit may have one opening (the American single vent), which gives an informal look, or two (the English double vent), which makes it more formal. The Italians invented the ventless jacket, a convention that began to be broken from the 1960s. By tradition, a classic dinner jacket still has no vent today. Modern formal wear, however, breaks this perhaps overly rigid rule. One tip, though: a single vent is best avoided by a man carrying extra kilos. It is very demanding on anyone who is not slim. A man with a prominent seat should always opt for a double vent.
4. Working buttonholes: why do they matter on a jacket?
Any master tailor will say that the number of buttons should match the number of buttonholes. Quite so: buttons should not be sewn on merely for the sake of being there. Decorative buttons, however, are commonplace on shop-bought suits. Working buttonholes, especially hand-sewn ones, are the mark of careful workmanship. The buttons on a jacket sleeve sometimes overlap, which is why they are known as kissing buttons. The suggestion is to “forget” to fasten the last cuff button, although in Italy men can be seen leaving two or three undone. The result?
“The result lived up to it: a distinguished black tie suit, extremely elegant, well cut and noticed by everyone at my wedding party. Șerban, my style consultant, advised me by the book throughout the whole process” (C. C., ZAVATE client).
When technical execution and advice go hand in hand, an occasion suit is more than an outfit. It becomes a presence.
5. Which lining keeps the wearer from overheating in a jacket?
Originally, jackets were fully lined. Today, many are half-lined or unlined altogether, for extra lightness. Their great advantage is freedom of movement combined with an airy look. For those who still prefer a “classic lining”, the best options are regular viscose and Bemberg (cupro). Both are cellulose fibres, very silky to the touch. Synthetic linings are best avoided: they cause overheating and sweating and, on sensitive skin, irritation. The label is always worth reading.
6. Set-in or patch pockets: which are more elegant?
Pockets generally serve a practical purpose. There are set-in pockets with jets and flaps, which are very elegant, and patch pockets, which are somewhat sportier. Flap pockets were originally worn only in the daytime. Following tradition once again, an occasion suit, being ceremonial dress, cannot have flaps either.
In the end, the drop, lapels, buttonholes, vents, lining and pockets may be the most underestimated elements, but they are the details that make the difference in any jacket. We recently wrote about the 4 rules of the waistcoat. For trousers, we drew up a taxonomy meant to serve as a practical guide. Together, they make up the occasion suit.
