The choice of a jacket matters a great deal to a man who cares about his image. The finest pieces in the wardrobe count for nothing if a poor-quality jacket covers them. The jacket shapes the whole outfit and speaks for it. It is everywhere, often in place of an overcoat or a sport jacket. Spring, in particular, is its ideal season. This article sets out the main types of jacket and suggests how to wear each one so that it draws every eye.
1. How did the jacket come about, and what is it made of?
After the Second World War, more and more gentlemen wanted shorter, more practical coats. As a result, the range of materials used for jackets widened. Alongside classic wool and cashmere came other fine blends, leather, cotton and high-tech textiles (nylon and polyester).
2. The bomber jacket: who suits it, and how is it worn?
It is the shortest-cut jacket, a faithful copy of the blouson worn by military aircrews during the war (hence the name). The shoulders are comfortably cut. It is gathered at the waist with elastic or buckles and fastens with a zip. The favoured colours are shades of brown or black, with a worn look. As a casual piece, the bomber gives a free and easy look. How is it worn? With jeans, chinos, corduroy trousers or even tweed trousers. Lace-up boots are all but obligatory. Whatever the choice, a well-chosen bomber takes years off an outfit. At ZAVATE, we have extended the Simplified Bespoke service to bomber jackets, a decision our clients have welcomed.
3. The varsity jacket: what is its history, and what does it go with?
It is the legendary garment of America’s elite universities, originally designed as an athletic jacket for basketball players. It is cut to the waist and most often made of wool melton, with leather inserts. Common features are the club emblem on the pocket above the heart and embroidery on the back. Varsity jackets come in bold colours. The more the body contrasts with the sleeves, the more sophisticated the look. How is it worn? Even more casual than the bomber, it goes with pre-washed jeans or cargo trousers. Underneath, a T-shirt, a polo neck or a hoodie, preferably white (the jacket already has colour enough). High-top Converse or sneakers are the perfect footwear.
4. The biker jacket: what does it say, and how does it fit into an outfit?
It is one of the most popular types of jacket, also known as the Perfecto. Originally designed in the 1930s for motorcyclists, it is now for everyone. It is comfortable, short-cut and versatile. Hollywood stars such as Marlon Brando were genuinely obsessed with it. The biker jacket is a symbol of rebellious masculinity, so it is worth asking whether it suits the man. How is it worn? Usually with black or white trousers, or with worn jeans. On top, a white T-shirt or a dark roll-neck, and the outfit is ready. A hat? Optional.
5. The Barbour jacket: when is it worn, and what goes with it?
It is recognisable by its oiled finish, in weathered Egyptian cotton, olive green or earthy brown. It takes its name from the company that launched it. With the length of a sport jacket, patch pockets, stainless press studs and a velvet collar, it enjoys enormous popularity. How is it worn? Never over a suit. It can, however, go confidently over a tweed sport jacket or jumpers, with country-style trousers. Suede Chukka boots are a perfect match.
In short, the generic word “jacket” covers several distinct styles, each with its own history and uses. What was once worn in war or on American campuses is now worn outdoors by the urban man. They are not the only ones on the market, but the jackets described above are the most popular. The only test left is which of them belongs in a given wardrobe.
