Can male elegance take exaggerated forms? What comes to mind, perhaps, are those who, eager to show off, dress up like a carnival float. The truth, however, is that there are ways to stand out loudly without breaking too many of the rules of geometry, proportion, material and pattern. For those wondering how, allow us to explain the concept of the “dandy”. This article covers where it comes from, how it shows itself and a few examples of so-called dandy outfits.
1. The dandy: city boy or symbol of elegance?
Historically, the term “dandy” appeared in the 18th century and meant “city boy”. A century later, it came to describe a person preoccupied with his appearance and with how he presents himself in society through dress. The best-known dandy in history remains Beau Brummell, an Englishman of middle-class origins but great ambitions. His life was the subject of the film Beau Brummell: This Charming Man. Although Brummell went down in history for his snobbery, enthusiasts stress that the true heir to his spirit is not the man in an impeccable suit, but the one who has mastered sprezzatura, the art of studied carelessness.
2. How can a dandy be recognised today?
A dandy is a man deeply preoccupied with his appearance, dress and manners. His great passion, however, remains clothes. He seeks out the special, the colourful, the original. At heart he appreciates classic style, though in everyday life he pursues extravagance. The devotee of dandy style wears richly patterned suits and shirts, with ornate ties and distinctive footwear. Through his dress, he seeks to amuse himself. He wears light shades in winter or subdued ones in summer with the same grace and ease.
3. Dandy outfits: classic or extravagant?
Although dandy style developed late in Romania (it still seems hard to reconcile with Bucharest’s grey tower blocks), there are signs that it can find room to grow among Romanian clothes lovers. Here are a few examples of dandy outfits, which can be adapted to personal taste, the occasion and the season:
• A shirt with a pointed collar, a textured waistcoat and high-waisted trousers, paired with a tie or a silk scarf.
• A checked sport jacket, a fine roll-neck jumper, beige trousers, suede brogues and a wristwatch on a leather strap.
• A light-coloured linen or cotton jacket, a pastel linen shirt, chinos in a warm shade, loafers or leather espadrilles and a Panama hat.
4. Dandies: men only, or women too?
The concept is not limited to men. Women, too, can be dandies. A female dandy takes an elegant, sophisticated and refined approach to dress and conduct. The very fact that dandyism is not bound by gender makes it more complex than it seems. It has settled permanently into European popular culture. The Pitti Uomo fair is where, twice a year, the largest number of gentlemen united by a passion for dandyism gather. In recent years, however, enthusiast communities have begun to distinguish between authentic dandyism and peacocking. The tendency of some to dress ostentatiously merely to catch the lenses of the fair’s photographers draws criticism.
The verdict: if dandyism means a constant concern with appearance and with how one presents oneself in society, we are firmly in favour. Even if it can sometimes take exaggerated forms. Virtue or vice, then? Each man must decide for himself.