Part one, which traces how trousers evolved over the centuries, is available here. This second part offers short profiles of the best-known types of trousers. More than a few of them already hang in the average man’s wardrobe.
1. How did chinos come about, and where does the name come from?
The birth of chinos takes us back to around 1848. At the time, India was a British colony. Harry Burnett Lumsden, a commander of the troops stationed there, had the idea of dyeing the white trousers of his soldiers’ uniform. The dye was a blend of coffee, curry powder and mulberry juice, meant to hide the dirt that clung permanently to the cloth. The Indians called the new colour khaki, meaning roughly “the colour of dust”. The word chino, however, has a different origin. Cotton trousers made in England and exported to China were shipped on by the Chinese to the Philippines, where American troops were quartered (1934 to 1946). The trousers were named after their “Chinese” provenance: chino.
2. How do American trousers differ from European ones?
American trousers resemble English ones, only fuller, after the sack suit model covered in our short history of the suit. The Briton wants his suit to be correct. The Italian wants his suit to dazzle. The American wears his strictly for business and the office.
3. Who invented turn-ups, and how should they be worn?
Turn-ups are less common in the British school than on the Continent. No one knows who invented them. Legend, however, credits King Edward VII, grandfather of the Duke of Windsor. Originally, turn-ups had a practical role: they protected the ankle from dust and mud. They are versatile, but given their more relaxed look, they are questionable on a dinner suit or with a morning coat. Shorter men are better off without them, as turn-ups make the legs look shorter. On a tall, slim man, by contrast, they seem to anchor him to the ground. As a rule, trousers with turn-ups should sit without a break. The depth of the turn-up is closely linked to the width of the leg opening. Generally, though, it measures 3.5 to 4 cm, the same as the waistband.
4. How did the trouser crease come about?
The trouser crease was born by pure accident. During a yacht cruise, the Prince of Wales’s valet folded his trousers the wrong way, and a crease appeared. No one suspected at the time that it would, in time, become a symbol of masculine elegance. Wool is the ideal candidate for creased trousers. Most patterns take a crease well.
5. What were cargo trousers originally used for?
Cargo trousers were originally a favourite of house painters. They entered menswear after the Second World War. Today they come both full-length and in a shorter version, as cargo shorts.
6. How were jeans born, and how did they catch on?
Jeans were invented in California in the 19th century. Their main wearers were miners and gold prospectors, as jeans were tough, practical and comfortable. They only entered urban dress in the 1950s, thanks to James Dean, who wore them on screen with a slightly worn T-shirt. Cotton, and denim above all, conveys masculinity and firmness. That is why men’s jeans with a high proportion of elastane are best avoided.
7. Do men still wear skirts today?
Just as, in the past, small groups of women wore trousers on special occasions, small groups of men still wear skirts today. Examples include the Scottish kilt, the fustanella of Greek and Albanian soldiers and the Malay sarong. Certain professions also favour loose garments, such as the cassocks of the clergy or the robes of judges. The question that remains is which pair a man reaches for first.
