Cum au apărut pantalonii pe care îi purtăm azi: partea I

1. How far back does the history of trousers go?

The history of men’s trousers is lost in the mists of time. Prized by some cultures and despised by others, trousers were a revolution in the development of clothing. Among the Persians and Scythians, trousers were commonplace, since they made riding easier. Among the ancient Romans, trousers were considered a mark of the barbarian. That is why the Romans wore draped, skirt-like garments of woollen cloth, as seen in countless films. In the Middle Ages, the orders of knighthood wore trousers fitted with guards, out of a need for protection. After the Renaissance, aristocratic men in the West traded their loose breeches for the close-fitting hose familiar from musketeer films. So when did trousers, as we know them today, become a symbol of refined masculinity?

2. Where exactly does the word “pantalon” come from?

Linguistically, the Romanian word pantalon comes from the Modern Greek pantalóni. Culturally, trousers are directly linked to the history of theatre. Old Italian comedies often featured a character named Pantalone, known for his long, loose breeches.

3. How did trousers reach Romania, and who were the “pantalonari”?

Today, trousers are a garment that sits at the waist, cut with a plain hem or turn-ups, pockets, pleats and a waistband. They became socially accepted in Western Europe around the 1850s. As an imported fashion, they also reached Romania, where they replaced the Turkish-Byzantine dress favoured by the Phanariot boyars. Around the time of the Revolution of 1848, these elderly boyars called the young bonjouristes “pantalonari” (trouser-wearers). With this nickname, they singled out the young duellists who had adopted Western fashion. It was the age in which the concept of the dandy reached the Romanian lands. Translators, however, replaced it with the pejorative filfizon, roughly a fop (from the French vive le son [du canon]).

4. How many types of trousers are there today?

Now, a brief classification. By cut, material or intended use, the options include balloon trousers, cargo trousers, chinos, baggy trousers, skinny or drainpipe trousers, flares or bell-bottoms, capri or three-quarter trousers, Bermuda shorts, shorts, five-pocket trousers, high-waisted trousers, low-rise trousers, drop-crotch trousers, trousers with turn-ups, creased trousers, tracksuit bottoms, plus fours and ski trousers.

5. Why do some classic trousers have a split at the back?

A comic detail. Trousers with a waistband often have a small split at the back, known in the English tradition as the after-dinner split. It allows a little extra room after a hearty meal. While it makes little real difference to the waist measurement, the detail is regarded as a mark of elegance and refinement.

The story continues here, in part two, which covers the types of trousers that emerged in the 20th century. The very trousers worn today.