Summer is the season that tests the principles of classic menswear the most. In a world that is rapidly “casualizing,” the turn toward t-shirts and shorts seems like the most comfortable option. Still, in more conservative business environments, scorching heat is not a valid excuse for lowering the level of formality. So then, what is left to do?
In this article, we explain which fabrics are ideal for a summer suit — your solution for the hot season!
1. Wool
Of course, we’re not talking about the thick wool you’re probably imagining. All men who have tried on an Italian suit — half-lined, airy, almost transparent — have been surprised to discover that this lightweight material drapes just as well as autumn suiting. The wearer can feel the cool air around his legs, while the sleeves are so thin that the shirt cuff seems heavy and rigid.
Yes, we’re talking about wool, but the kind that allows the body to breathe! Opt for a tropical weave (fresco) or a Super 180, for example, and you can be sure you’ll get through summer in comfort without wrinkling too much. It can be worn at the office, for business meetings, or at a daytime cocktail.
2. Cashmere
If you think of cashmere only as warm, soft wool, you should know that there are also lightweight summer versions. Though substantial, they are cool and very pleasant to wear. Cashmere is not as durable as wool, for instance, but it keeps its shape better than cotton or linen. That’s why, unlike the wool suit, we suggest cashmere if you spend more time standing.
3. Mohair
Like cashmere, mohair is spun from the wool of a goat and then woven. It is a textured, extremely elastic material that wrinkles even less than merino wool! Because of its very distinctive sheen, most men consider mohair to be too sophisticated, reserved exclusively for evening and ceremonial suits. In reality, this characteristic shine gives mohair its nobility and, quite often, it can be worn during the day as well. Nevertheless, it is not often found in the wardrobes of urban gentlemen. You, however, can be different!
4. Silk
For many men, it’s hard to imagine silk as a material suitable for suits, perhaps because most associate it with delicate Hermès scarves or Gucci bow ties. In fact, silk dyed in summer colors is perfect for summer suits. Italians are Europe’s masters in obtaining and processing this luxurious material. They also deserve credit for popularizing it. Wearing a silk suit might seem eccentric for everyday activities, but it becomes an excellent choice as soon as evening falls.
5. Cotton
Cotton is cool in hot weather, making it ideal for lightweight suits. However, the drawback of these summer pieces — usually in light colors — is that they wrinkle easily, a trait that affects the suit’s shape. Typically, the elbows and knees are the first to show it, causing the suit’s line to suffer noticeably. From our experience, we’ve observed that men either tolerate this inconvenience because of the pleasant feel of cotton, or they don’t even consider it a disadvantage at all…
6. Linen
Opinions about linen are divided. The conservative camp regards it as suitable only for pocket squares. The avant-garde side believes linen is wonderful precisely because of the wrinkles that define it. Whichever side is closer to the truth, one thing is certain: Irish linen seems to be the most praised. Since linen wrinkles more easily than cotton, and its creases don’t give way, it is not often used in classic tailoring. Therefore, linen fibers can be a valid option for you if you’re not bothered by their naturally wrinkled look.
For variety, there are also blends such as wool-linen, wool-linen-silk, or wool-mohair.
In conclusion, wool, cashmere, mohair, cotton, and linen are the five fundamental fabrics for a summer suit, standing up brilliantly to hot temperatures. This way, you’ll feel comfortable and elegant no matter the weather conditions, which sometimes… become hostile to a stylish man. And if you want to dive deeper into the secrets of fabrics, take a look at some of the most highly regarded books on the subject, such as Gentleman by Bernhard Roetzel, which also inspired us in writing this article.
