Have you often seen men dressed in crumpled, shiny, rigid suits that are two sizes too big? Whether you were at a wedding, a social event, or in a corporate setting, men’s clothing mistakes keep showing up on repeat.
In this article, we’ll explain why the measure, the model, and the material – in that order – are the three M’s you must keep in mind when choosing your future outfit, especially if you go for ready-to-wear.
MEASURE:
This is what stands out first. The model is noticeable when you get closer, and the material is felt only when touched. But the measure is visible from afar! So, make sure you know your measurements well when making a clothing purchase. For a perfect look, your suit should faithfully follow your body’s silhouette.
Pay attention to the sleeves! In principle, the cuff of your shirt should extend about 2 centimeters beyond the sleeve of the jacket. Why? For reasons of symmetry with the shirt collar.
Check the length of the torso! Both a casual jacket and an elegant one, when vertical, normally cover the entire seat. Keep that in mind.
Take a look at the back! A jacket that’s too large will create folds in the cervical area, near the collar, due to excess fabric.
Look at yourself from the front! Do you see the hourglass effect? If not, it means your jacket is too loose and needs to be taken in at the waist.
Last but not least, check the trousers! You shouldn’t see more than one discreet fold where they meet the shoe. Accordion-style trousers (with lots of folds at the bottom) are a clear sign they need shortening at the tailor.
Bonus! Ideally, trousers should sit firmly at your waist without needing a belt. The belt “cuts” the outfit in two and creates disharmony. Don’t forget that originally, a man’s attire relied exclusively on the head (the hat) and the shoulders (suspenders); the belt at the waist was suitable only for a soldier’s weapons or a worker’s tools.
MODEL:
The model expresses the wearer’s mood and personality but can also conceal small body disadvantages. It’s known that a pinstripe suit will make you look taller, while a checked suit will give the impression of width. But the reverse is also true! If you’re tall and thin, think twice before wearing stripes; or if you’re short and broad, think twice before checks.
Your suit is your armor, and you can make it work for you. Don’t forget: context is everything! Do you work in a corporate environment or attend frequent business meetings? Then your wardrobe should include bold stripes on a navy cloth. They’re a symbol of power you can never go wrong with. Since the 1980s, pinstripe suits have been seen as a hallmark of capitalism in the Western business world (we wrote more about the power suit HERE).
Do you have a social event to attend on the weekend? That’s where you can feel free to be more creative. Still, for a harmonious result, be careful when mixing large patterns with small ones. We recommend choosing fabrics with patterns that grow gradually as they move away from the body: the shirt pattern should be small, the tie medium-sized, and the jacket large.
MATERIAL:
The material makes the difference between a pretend dandy and a genuine gentleman. Polyester fabrics shine, smell bad, are stiff, and stop the body from breathing naturally. In such a suit, you’ll overheat in summer and freeze in winter. What should you buy? First of all, wool fabrics. All-season wool is the most versatile and works as a natural insulator. In summer, you can also look for fabrics like linen, cotton, or fresco, while in winter we suggest tweed or corduroy.
And finally, don’t skimp on money! A suit made from natural fibers costs more than one made from “plastic,” but a cheap thing isn’t good, and a good thing isn’t cheap. Still, is there quality at affordable prices? Sometimes there is – or at least that’s what we dreamed of when we created our S-Bespoke service, which we invite you to check out HERE.
In conclusion, remember this old British principle. They say that if a brand-new suit looks “brand-new” on you, it means the tailor didn’t do his job properly. A suit should look like a natural part of the wearer. Until next time, good luck making the right choices!
