The shirt is the universal garment, indispensable in any wardrobe. Still, it defines masculinity above all. Whether you wear it buttoned all the way up or left open with the sleeves rolled up, the right shirt will convey masculinity and style. The shirt began its career as underwear, which is why it couldn’t be shown in public and had to be pulled over the head. It then evolved into pieces rich in lace, until around 1870 when the version with front buttons and a foldable collar appeared, made from increasingly fine fabrics such as poplin, batiste, oxford, piqué, or Sea Island.
Planning to refresh your wardrobe? Instead of buying three low-quality shirts at a low price, it’s better to order one good one, for the same amount you would pay for the other three together. A good shirt will last many more years than three cheap ones, so the cost per wear is lower. Here are 9 advantages of a made-to-measure shirt:
1. Taking measurements
No body is anatomically perfect. If you fall into the big & tall category, things get even more complicated. That’s why only taking measurements guarantees that your future shirt will faithfully follow the line of your silhouette. There are six essential measurements your tailor must take into account: chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, arm length (measured separately), back width, and neck circumference.
2. Removable collar stays
A good shirt is recognized by its collar. Its shape gives character to the face of the shirt. For extra rigidity, a quality collar is equipped with small back “pockets” where removable stays are inserted, usually plastic, though I recommend bronze ones. The stays ensure a proper line for the collar and prevent the tips from curling upward. This aspect is very important when you wear the shirt with a tie.
3. Two-piece yoke
I know it sounds strange, but most people have one shoulder higher than the other. The role of the yoke is to perfectly adjust the shirt’s cut to the wearer’s shape. Cutting a yoke from two pieces (which meet in the middle) helps correct this lack of symmetry between the shoulders. Some master tailors can cut one-piece yokes that still look good, but they’re hard to find, so be careful who you go to!
4. Pattern matching at the seams
Matching stripes or checks at the main meeting points of the shirt (yoke, collar, sleeves, cuffs) is essential for visual harmony. Generally, only made-to-measure shirts (and custom-made suits) provide this feature, because it requires more fabric.
5. Cuff orientation
The cuff of the shirt is another defining element. In mass-market shirts, the cuff is an extension of the sleeve (vertical), while in custom-made shirts, the cuff is oriented perpendicular to the sleeve (horizontal, as in the image). A simple cuff, fastened with buttons, is suitable for informal occasions, while the double (French) cuff, fastened with cufflinks, works best for formal events. Some workshops also offer convertible cuffs, which can be fastened both ways.
6. Stitch density
The more stitches a shirt has, the more durable it will be. Especially in the case of double parallel seams (like on the placket), the small stitch length prevents the fabric between the seams from puckering after washing. Make sure there are at least 7–8 stitches per centimeter.
7. Durable buttons
A quality shirt requires mother-of-pearl buttons. Mother-of-pearl is so hard it can break a sewing machine needle. That’s why I recommend wearing shirts with durable, hand-sewn buttons.
8. The gusset
Many men don’t even know what this is! Still, that small triangular piece of fabric connecting the back of the shirt with the front is essential for strengthening the angle where the chest meets the back. Off-the-rack shirts always skip this detail. Have you noticed it before?
9. Monogram embroidery
The monogram, as a sign of identification, was very popular in the past. Today it still appears on men who pay attention to detail and can be done by hand sewing or computer embroidery. It is placed either under the heart, as preferred by the English and Italian schools, or more discreetly, on the cuff (as in the image), as the American school suggests.
Make sure of these 9 details when ordering your next shirt and you’ll feel the difference on your own skin (literally). Once you know the advantages of a custom-made piece, you’ll never go back to off-the-rack products!
Bonus! If you’re planning a city break in London and want to refresh your wardrobe, keep this in mind. In general, the addresses on Savile Row (Anderson & Sheppard, H. Huntsman & Sons, Henry Poole & Co., Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawks, French & Stanbury, Kilgour) specialize in custom-made suits, while those on Jermyn Street (New & Lingwood, Turnbull & Asser, Harvie & Hudson, Hilditch & Key, T. M. Lewin, Thomas Pink) specialize in made-to-measure shirts and shoes. Good luck!
