The cold season is around the corner, and you know how important it is to be prepared. In winter, the overcoat is the first calling card of any well-groomed gentleman. It’s the garment that people notice first, and it serves as a shield between the wearer and the environment.
Although many men treat the subject superficially, we believe that with the arrival of autumn, the overcoat becomes a priority. In this article, we’ll present the main types of overcoats, so you can see which one suits you best!
The Crombie Overcoat
This is the classic English overcoat, straight-cut and typically grey or navy (picture 1). As a style, it has been around for over a century. Made from thick wool fabric, the Crombie is best suited for the gloomy months of autumn and winter. Nearly all made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring houses include it in their core portfolio, in slightly varied forms. It is the most sober model of overcoat, which makes it ideal for evening outfits and funerals.
The Chesterfield Overcoat
This model established itself in British society in the 19th century, back when only the wealthy could afford expensive overcoats. The Chesterfield can be found in both single-breasted and double-breasted versions, in beige, blue, or black. The most common, however, is the single-breasted version, made of wool herringbone cloth. It is recognizable by its slanted flap pockets and a collar usually cut from velvet. It also has a breast pocket, where you can tuck a pocket square. Being a sober model, it integrates easily into day ensembles such as business attire, but also works for evening wear.
The British Warm Overcoat
The name itself hints at its origin. It was born as a military coat but later migrated into civilian use (picture 2). Made of thick wool or cashmere, it is as warm as it is refined. You can recognize it by its decorative epaulettes (a military remnant) and by the fact that it is always double-breasted. Modern adaptations often omit the epaulettes. It is a versatile model, usually in earthy tones, perfect for moderately elegant daytime outfits.
The Loden Overcoat
Loden is a thick, rough, almost waterproof wool fabric from Tyrol that spread across Europe. The overcoat of the same name is made exclusively from this cloth, traditionally in olive green. You can recognize it by its straight cut, fastened with a single row of buttons. It is resistant to water, wind, and damage from natural elements such as branches or thorns. Being a spartan model, it pairs well with tweed, fisherman sweaters, or ribbed wool fabrics.
The Polo Overcoat
The polo coat is a classic American product, named after the sport (picture 3). Brooks Brothers imported the model into England at the beginning of the last century, boosting its popularity. Its patch pockets give it a relaxed look, although modern versions often have slit pockets. The ideal fabrics are navy, cream, or brown (solid or checked). It is recognizable by its belt, which may fasten with a buckle or tie in a knot. It’s an excellent choice for daytime wear, especially in the smart casual category.
The Duffle Overcoat
This is the most casual model on our list. In fact, it is a short coat made of duffle wool, with a military history—worn by British naval officers during World War II. After the war, civilians turned to shorter, more practical coats inspired by hunting and the military. This is how the duffle entered the market, quickly gaining popularity. You can recognize it by its hood, patch pockets, and toggles instead of buttons. It is a youthful model, usually cream-colored and made of wool, perfect for relaxed, informal outfits. Today, it can also be found in shades like brown, olive green, or navy. Tip: if you are short, the duffle is ideal, as it makes your legs appear longer.
In conclusion, the overcoat should be the natural extension of your outfit. It should align with your chosen dress code and complement your look. A carefully chosen overcoat emphasizes the wearer’s personality and attention to detail. Our list doesn’t cover every model out there, but it highlights the most important ones. How many of them do you have in your wardrobe?
