Nowadays, an aspiring gentleman has access to free information and can educate himself. Still, the tradition of classic menswear has been shaped by small refinements over more than two centuries, leading to today’s perfected rules. Unfortunately, men who rush through the learning process overlook exactly those details that separate a well-dressed gentleman from a Christmas tree.
In this article, we’ve compiled a list of 5 major mistakes you should always keep in mind.
1. Forgetting to Remove the Label or Basting Threads
It may sound redundant to point this out, but experience has shown us that this mistake is all too common. The white basting threads used by the tailor are meant to hold cut parts of the blazer (such as the sleeves or vent) in place so they withstand transport. They are not decorative and should be removed as soon as you take ownership of the blazer. The label on the sleeve must also be taken off. Its sole purpose is to help store staff organize their stock by brand.
2. Wearing Sneakers on Every Occasion
Sneakers are enjoying their moment of glory these days, but that doesn’t mean they can be worn with any blazer, for any occasion. Black, navy, and white leather models are the most versatile and discreet. Still, avoid wearing them with formal daywear and especially with evening outfits. Shoes must harmonize with the blazer, and the blazer with the dress code. And most importantly: wear socks! Even with a sport blazer, baring your ankles is a gesture best left to the ladies.
3. Skipping the Pocket Square
A properly ironed shirt and a well-chosen pocket square make the difference between a boy and a man. Most gentlemen forget to slip a pocket square into the breast pocket, leaving the outfit incomplete. The pocket square reinforces the aesthetic balance of the ensemble and, like the tie, reflects the wearer’s mood. A related mistake, with equally disastrous effects, is wearing a pocket square from the same set as the tie. That betrays a lack of attention and patience in choosing a complementary square.
4. Wearing the Wrong Trousers
This mistake is closely tied to the season. The trousers should, as much as possible, match the material of the blazer. Jeans are the exception to the rule. But pairing a tweed blazer with linen trousers, or a linen blazer with heavy corduroy trousers, is a mistake many men make in an attempt to achieve an exotic mix. Think twice before doing so.
5. Overdoing the Accessories
“Rushing the steps,” as mentioned above, doesn’t only mean missing elements—it can also mean having too many. Overloading your outfit with every accessory in your drawer reflects a misunderstanding of the concept of “dandy.” A creative outfit can result from a minimal number of accessories, combined with good sense. Crowding too many accessories on the upper half of your look will strongly disadvantage the lower half. A man’s accessories include: the tie, belt, watch, cufflinks, pocket square, sunglasses, and lapel pin. Limit yourself to no more than four accessories in one outfit.
These are the most common 5 mistakes every modern gentleman should keep in mind at all times. While for many men the errors listed above may seem too minor to deserve attention, sartorial refinement is the result of continuous effort to understand the rules of clothing—so that you can (eventually) break them. Never the other way around.
