Tuxedo, Black Tie, or Dinner Jacket… How many times have you heard these words used for the same dress code? Are they identical? Do they share a common origin? Are they worn the same way? In this article, we’ll explain the ABCs of formalwear in its essential points. Let’s begin!
Legend has it that the famous royal court tailor, Henry Poole (his firm still exists today on Savile Row), at the request of the Prince of Wales, designed a less formal version of the tailcoat.
The tailcoat jacket was shortened, kept its black color, and was paired with straight trousers. This more comfortable version was conceived as a smoking jacket (hence the Romanian term smoching, < Eng. smoking), circulating in Great Britain.
Not long after, a wealthy American, Griswold Lorillard, ordered a copy of the smoking jacket, which he first wore at the elegant Tuxedo Club in New York. Soon, the outfit became mandatory for men who went to the casino. Thus was born the most widespread version of eveningwear, which in America goes by the name tuxedo.
Today, the tuxedo is perceived as formal attire. On invitations with a dress code, you’ll find it under the label black tie or cravate noir. Do you need one? Every man does… because every man occasionally attends a ceremony, a wedding, or a funeral. The advantage? It never goes out of style, it’s classic, and it’s always combined the same way. A well-chosen tuxedo can last you a lifetime—if you stay the same size.
How do you recognize a tuxedo? It’s black or midnight blue, with satin-covered buttons, peaked lapels or a shawl collar (always in silk), and jetted pockets without flaps. The trousers feature a silk braid (side stripe) along the outer seam.
How do you wear it? It’s paired with a matching waistcoat, a pleated-front shirt, a cummerbund (as in the picture), and a black bow tie, tied by hand. The trousers are matched with black silk socks and patent leather shoes or, for more pedantic gentlemen, velvet opera pumps.
Did you know? In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent adapted the tuxedo to the female silhouette, giving women who embraced the unisex style an elegant alternative to the evening dress. From that moment on, the tuxedo became universal.
In conclusion, formalwear has a long history, comes with precise rules, and combines in fixed ways. It’s a must-have for any urban gentleman who practices style, refinement, and a taste for the classics. When was the last time you wore black tie?
