Leather sneakers, known in America as dress sneakers, differ from athletic shoes in their thin sole, leather lining and absence of logos. They belong to smart casual, not to the formal suit. This article answers a few frequent questions: how to recognise them, which outfits they work with, and whether they are a long-term investment or a passing trend.
1. How can sneakers be told apart from athletic shoes?
Many men buy athletic shoes in the belief that they are buying sneakers. Sneakers, however, have a relatively thin sole. Structurally, the vamp sits beneath quarters that open like a little waistcoat, as on a Derby. Their wide laces run parallel across the instep rather than criss-crossing. The upper is usually cut from white, brown, navy or black leather. Inside, sneakers are lined with leather, just like dress shoes. At the base, on the outside, there is the ever-present rim of the sole, most often white.
2. What do sneakers lack, and why does it matter?
They have no distracting details such as logos or stripes. That is how they keep their “clean” look. The company that launched the first sneaker of this kind, the Achilles, is Common Projects of New York. That was in 2004.
3. Do sneakers go with a suit?
The first answer is “no”. Sneakers belong to smart casual, a category that excludes the suit. An expensive made-to-measure suit paired with sneakers does not look good. Sneakers sit on the same rung of formality as loafers, and that is the territory to explore. Chinos, jumpers and polo shirts are exactly what a new pair of sneakers needs. It is also worth noting that they suit knee-length shorts. Discernment is still required, so as not to go off the rails of classic dress. Last but not least, socks. A bare ankle is an eminently feminine gesture.
4. When can sneakers be worn with a suit after all?
The second, less categorical answer is “perhaps”. Under certain conditions, sneakers can be worn with a suit, though the look will be less formal. White sneakers look best with a navy suit. Ideally, though, with a white T-shirt or a polo neck instead of a shirt. Only experiment shows what works for a given man.
5. Do sneakers have a future, or are they a passing trend?
As a rule, a trend lasts about a year, though some stretch to two or three. Given that sneakers in their current form have been on the market for over a decade, the forecast is in their favour. Their versatility gives them staying power, along with room to grow more refined. Practicality, comfort and low cost are further advantages on their side.
Sneakers, then, are now clear in theory as well as in practice: what they are, how to recognise them, what to pair them with and what prospects they have. What is certain is that any new garment needs time to settle into the canon of a tradition. Until then, the difficulty of classifying it gives rise to excess. With sneakers, a suit worn with bare ankles is, let us say, one such lapse. As always, however, discernment, good taste and decency decide how close kitsch comes.
