In an age when comfort is the supreme criterion for clothes, many men simplify their wardrobe so much that they lose sight of pieces once indispensable to any gentleman. One of them is the double-breasted jacket. At ZAVATE, however, our philosophy is that elegance and refinement do not contradict comfort. That is why we have decided to make the case for the double-breasted jacket. This article explains what it is, where it comes from and why it is worth having.
1. The double-breasted jacket: military or civilian origins?
A double-breasted jacket has straight-cut fronts, one overlapping the other. It originated in the navy. It gradually crossed into civilian life and entered the canon of men’s dress between the wars. After the Second World War it stepped out of the spotlight, yet kept an unbroken presence until the 2000s. Today, a gentleman in one is unfairly labelled a dandy.
2. How many buttons does a double-breasted jacket have?
Originally, the military wore jackets with eight buttons. Today’s standard of elegance calls for six, one of which always stays unfastened. The great advantage is that the material of the buttons can radically change the character of the jacket. An example? Swap ordinary plastic buttons for metal ones, and the result is an original blazer for striking urban outfits.
3. Peak or notch lapels: which belong on it?
The lapels are another defining element. A double-breasted jacket should have peak lapels, with a buttonhole on each. Notch lapels are a poor match for its formal character. Lapel width directly affects how the silhouette is perceived. Wide lapels visually broaden a slim man’s shoulders, while narrow lapels visually slim a heavier man’s chest.
4. Heavy or light cloth: which works better?
As always, we recommend all-season wool, flannel, cashmere or various blends. But a great deal depends on the occasion. Heavier cloths, with their drape, sit best on a double-breasted jacket. The colour is a personal choice. Bear in mind, though, that this is a more formal jacket: loud colours or overly bold patterns ruin it and push it into kitsch. Plain, discreet but well-matched colours are all a jacket of this cut needs, as it leaves no room for eccentric impulses. The accessories, on the other hand, are free to play.
5. Tricks and secrets: how does it flatter the silhouette?
Perhaps its greatest advantage is the way it disguises the body’s small imperfections. The secret lies in the distance between the buttons. Widening it gives the appearance of a slimmer waist; narrowing it, a sturdier one. This play of proportions is much harder to achieve on a single-breasted jacket. Another secret: as a formal jacket, it should be worn buttoned, as it looks better that way.
6. Current or outdated: what is the final verdict?
That is the question on every clothes lover’s lips. What is certain is that a double-breasted jacket offers the same advantages in cloth and colour as a single-breasted one. But it allows far better control of the body’s geometry, through peak lapels and the arrangement of the buttons. Therein lies the crux: no piece creates more pronounced relief than the double-breasted jacket. Relief is the impression of depth a garment gives, through sfumato shading, defined outlines, modelled volumes and the drape of the cloth.
Here, then, is the ideal recipe to draw eyes like a magnet, in the most distinguished way possible. A double-breasted jacket is hard to find in the shops, so a visit to the tailor becomes a must. That may mean a little extra effort, but the long-term benefits repay the investment. The only question is how long it has been since the last one was worn.
