Autumn brings major changes to any man’s wardrobe. Shoes are among the pieces that deserve special attention. Thanks to their versatile, durable design, brogues are an excellent choice for cool, rainy days. For a shoe that combines classic style with practicality, brogues are the answer. This article explains why they suit autumn so well. From water-resistant materials to their characteristic perforations, brogues combine comfort and style that cope with changing weather while keeping a classic look.

1. The origins of the brogue: rural yesterday, urban today

Brogues first appeared in rural Scotland and Ireland, originally designed to help their wearers cross wet, muddy ground. Their perforations let water drain out of the shoe. As the shoes migrated to the city, the brogueing became purely decorative. Before the First World War, fierce competition between Viennese and Budapest craftsmen helped refine the way they were made. It added a dynamism demanded by the tastes of gentlemen in the cities of Austria-Hungary. That is how perforated shoes became a symbol of nonconformity and versatility.

2. Brogue: not a model, but an ornament

What answers to the name “brogue” is not the type of shoe itself, but the small perforations and serrations applied to the leather during the making of the upper. Whether closed-laced (Oxford), open-laced (Derby) or buckled (Monk), any type of shoe can be brogued. Each resulting model has a different level of formality and suits different contexts. The main variants are:

•    Oxford: semi-brogue, full brogue
•    Derby: semi-brogue (Viennese Derby), full brogue (Budapest Derby)
•    Monk: semi-brogue, full brogue

3. Brogues in casual outfits

Brogues work superbly in casual outfits, especially with jeans or chinos and a relaxed shirt. On autumn days, a cardigan or a fine jumper adds a sophisticated, layered look. A tweed blazer completes the outfit beautifully with an elegant, discreet note. Brogues contribute to a balanced look in which decorative details make all the difference between an ordinary outfit and one with personality.

4. Brogues on semi-formal occasions

Thanks to their versatility, brogues also fit into semi-formal outfits. A suit in lightweight cloth, in grey or navy, pairs well with semi-brogue Oxfords. For a more relaxed combination, chinos and a sport jacket with a minimalist tie do the job. This blend of casual and semi-formal keeps the look refined, without any sign that the shoes pinch.

5. Why brogues are best avoided on formal occasions

Although brogues are semi-dress shoes, their perforated ornament makes them unsuitable for formal occasions. At weddings or galas, plain Oxfords with a polished upper and no perforations are the better choice. Brogues are associated with relaxed occasions or outfits that allow a degree of creativity.

6. Brogues and the women’s wardrobe

Although originally designed for men, brogues have also gained popularity in women’s fashion. Today many women choose brogues for casual or smart casual outfits, where they create an interesting contrast between masculine and feminine elements. Carmina Shoemaker of Mallorca is among the few makers that offer them to high standards. Worn with trousers or midi skirts, they bring comfort and style, an excellent choice for autumn days and for relaxed or office looks. There are even brogues, such as the ghillie, that men have abandoned entirely but women greatly appreciate. It has no tongue, and the uppers are tied with tasselled laces.

Brogues, then, remain a mainstay of the male wardrobe and an investment with long-term rewards. From their rustic origins to their place in modern urban wardrobes, they are symbols of elegance and versatility. In casual or semi-formal outfits, brogues bring that certain something that sets a man apart. Their design makes them the ideal choice for autumn. And for pairs already gathering dust in the cupboard, our article on shoe care shows how to extend their life.