For a long time, long hose were men’s most pompous and ostentatious garment. With the arrival of long trousers, they slipped out of sight, but remained an important part of the outfit. For anyone unsure which socks to choose, below is why over-the-calf socks are the perfect option, along with a little history, some useful tips and a few pairing ideas.
1. The origin of over-the-calf socks: from pomp to essential
Socks as we know them took their shape at the end of the 19th century. In the 1920s and 1930s, socks with elasticated tops revolutionised both their production and the way they were worn. Only in ultra-conservative London shops can socks without elastic still be found today.
Some consider socks optional, yet they are obligatory. Apart from a walk on the beach, there is no situation in which they can be done without. Admittedly, opinions keep changing and current attitudes grow ever more permissive. A man’s bare ankle has thus become commonplace. Our reservation on the matter, however, remains unchanged. It stems from the classic view of elegance and refinement.
2. Sock materials: cotton, cashmere or silk?
For everyday wear, socks can be made of cotton. Blended yarns, however, such as viscose, linen and other combinations, are increasingly popular. Socks can be thick or fine: winter cotton, terry for sport, or wool for the cold months. Cashmere and silk socks are considered luxury items.
Tradition holds that socks should always be long, especially with a suit. Few sights are less agreeable than a seated man in a suit flashing a hairy ankle. Today, mid-calf socks are also accepted. Born of compromise, they go with casual or semi-formal outfits. Shorter terry socks are permitted only with sportswear.
3. Colour and texture: how can they be matched without a faux pas?
The colour of socks matters, as does the way they relate to the rest of the outfit. The classic, indispensable colours are black, navy, anthracite blue, burgundy, mid grey, imperial green, coffee brown and beige. City socks are mostly plain, but bright ones with stripes or whimsical dots have become ever more common. Many men get carried away and, out of excess zeal, slip up precisely here. Some high-ranking politicians, such as Canada’s Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, are memorable examples. And not in a good way.
Some say socks should match the shoes, others the trousers. We recommend the latter, as it makes the legs look longer. The trick is ideal for men with short legs. A deliberately discordant note, different from both trousers and shoes, is of course an option. Here only experience prevents a fiasco. And texture? Flannel or corduroy trousers make poor companions for thin cotton socks. Thick wool socks are best kept away from ultra-light linen or fresco suits and airy shirts.
In short, socks are as useful as they are small. Historically, over-the-calf socks came first, and this article has set out the case for them as the urban gentleman’s perfect choice. It was inspired by Nicolas Schiffer’s Stilul vestimentar masculin contemporan [Contemporary Men’s Dress Style], an excellent resource for any gentleman keen to go deeper. Our own selection of socks offers plenty of inspiration, and can be ordered now.
