Summer is the season that most tests the principles of classic dress. In a world in the midst of “casualisation”, T-shirts and shorts seem the most comfortable option. In more conservative business circles, however, even scorching temperatures leave little room to lower the level of formality. What is to be done? Below are the ideal fabrics for a summer suit: the answer to the warm season.
1. Summer wool: how can it be comfortable in a heatwave?
This is not the heavy wool that may spring to mind. Gentlemen who have tried on an Italian half-lined suit, airy and almost sheer, have been astonished. They found that this light cloth drapes as well as that of an autumn suit. The wearer can feel the cool air around his legs, and the sleeves are so light that the shirt cuff feels heavy. Yes, this is wool, but wool that lets the body breathe. A tropical weave (fresco) or a Super 180s will carry its wearer through summer in comfort, without too many creases. It can be worn at the office, in business meetings or at a daytime cocktail party.
2. Summer cashmere: when is it the better choice over wool?
Some cashmeres are cool and pleasant to wear. Cashmere is not as hard-wearing as wool, but it keeps its shape better than cotton or linen. That is why, compared with a wool suit, we suggest cashmere for men who spend more time on their feet.
3. Mohair: why do men avoid it, and why are they wrong?
Mohair, like cashmere, is spun from goat hair and then woven. It is a grainy, highly resilient material that creases less readily than merino wool. Because of its characteristic sheen, most men consider mohair too dressy. In reality, that sheen is what gives mohair its nobility, and it can often be worn in the daytime. Even so, it rarely appears in the urban gentleman’s wardrobe. Which leaves plenty of room for the exception.
4. Silk: when is it right for a suit?
Many men find it hard to think of silk as a suiting material. Perhaps because most associate it first with delicate Hermès scarves or Gucci bow ties. In reality, silk dyed in summer colours is ideal for summer suits. The Italians are Europe’s masters at producing and working this luxurious material, and the credit for first popularising it is theirs too. A silk suit may seem eccentric for everyday activities, but after dark it comes into its own.
5. Cotton: what drawback comes with it?
Cotton stays cool in hot weather, which makes it ideal for light suits. The drawback of these summer pieces, usually light in colour, is that they crease easily, which affects the shape of the suit. The elbows and knees are usually the first to suffer, and the line of the suit with them. In our experience, men take one of two approaches: either they put up with the flaw for the pleasant feel of cotton, or they do not see it as a drawback at all.
6. Linen: who is it right for?
Opinions on linen are sharply divided. Conservatives consider it fit only for pocket squares. The avant-garde love it precisely for the creases that set it apart. Whoever is closer to the truth, Irish linen is certainly the most praised. Since linen creases more easily than cotton, and the creases do not drop out, it is rarely used in classic tailoring. Linen can therefore be a valid choice for a man untroubled by its naturally rumpled look. For variety, there are also wool-linen, wool-linen-silk and wool-mohair blends.
In short, wool, cashmere, mohair, silk, cotton and linen are the 6 basic fabrics for a summer suit. They handle high temperatures with flying colours. The result is comfort and elegance, whatever the weather throws at a stylish gentleman. For a deeper look at the secrets of cloth, the most respected books on the subject are well worth reading, such as Bernhard Roetzel’s Gentleman, which also inspired this article.
