If accessories seem designed to complicate a woman’s outfit, for men they serve precisely to define the sartorial formula more clearly. A man’s kit includes the tie, the pocket square, the belt, the watch, cufflinks, glasses and the hat. Since antiquity, accessories have carried a message about the wearer’s social standing. Without straying into history, this article lists the accessories no wardrobe should be without. And, most importantly, the mistakes to avoid with each.
1. The tie: how should it be chosen to convey authority?
The tie is one of the few outlets for male coquetry. The first scarf-ties appear around the necks of the soldiers fighting on Trajan’s Column. Today, the tie allows men to personalise their outfit. In recent decades, designers have altered its texture, dimensions and patterns, and given free rein to their imagination. What is worth knowing? The more formal the occasion, the more obligatory the tie. The ideal materials are silk (summer) and wool (winter). Its width should match that of the jacket lapels, for symmetry. Patterns should not be too extravagant (elephants, sheep or little cows), which is why the classics are the ideal recommendation: jacquard, paisley, polka dots, regimental stripes. The knot should be chosen according to the shirt collar and the thickness of the neck. The bow tie, too, is a variation on the tie.
2. The belt: when is it worn, and when is it best avoided?
A heated subject. Ideally, the trousers should stay in place at the waist with no need for a belt. A belt “cuts” the outfit in two and breaks its harmony. Originally, a man’s outfit rested solely on his head (the hat) and his shoulders (the braces). The belt at the waist was meant only for the soldier’s weapons and the workman’s tools. For those who still opt for a belt, here are our suggestions. What is worth knowing? The more formal the occasion, the less appropriate it becomes, so it is best kept for relaxed weekend outfits. The traditional material is calfskin. Casual belts can be made of woven raffia. Belts in other materials risk sliding into kitsch. The size of the belt is set by the waist measurement. Ideally, though, once fastened, the prong of the buckle should go through the middle hole. Needless to say, the shoes should match the belt in both colour and texture.
3. The pocket square: how is it matched correctly?
It is indispensable with a sport jacket or blazer. Although it began life with a practical role, today the pocket square is purely decorative. Hence the value of knowing its secrets. What is worth knowing? The more formal the occasion, the more the palette narrows towards classic white. The ideal materials are silk, wool, cotton and blends. There are many folds (triangle, square, puff), but the less of the square that shows, the more elegant the effect. The ideal size is 35 × 35 cm, which allows it to be folded several times. The most common mistake is a pocket square from the same set as the tie: the two cancel each other out. It signals carelessness and a lack of creativity. A pocket square matched to the shirt, not the tie, never fails.
4. The watch and cufflinks: what story do they tell about the wearer?
We have grouped them together, as both are exclusive pieces of jewellery that convey elegance, refinement and good taste. Both tell a story about the wearer’s status. And both tend to grow in value over time: a moving heirloom for a grandfather to leave his grandchildren. What is worth knowing? Both the watch and the cufflinks must match the other metals worn: the wedding ring and, where relevant, the lapel pin. As a rule, a watch goes with single cuffs, cufflinks with double (French) cuffs. To wear a watch and cufflinks together, a small, slim dress watch is the answer. As for size, these pieces should not clash with the size of the wrists.
5. Glasses: which shape suits which face?
Both sunglasses and prescription glasses count as accessories. While prescription glasses have a history of several centuries in Europe, sunglasses established themselves in the 1930s purely as an aesthetic object. Many men even wear plain-lens glasses to complete their features. What is worth knowing? The shape of the face dictates the shape of the glasses. There are a few established shapes: aviators (with a retro air), the classic Ray-Bans (popularised by Dean Martin) and rectangular ones (rimless, with smoked lenses). A round or oval face calls for square or rectangular frames. A squarer face calls for rounded or oval frames. A broader nose suits rimless or thin-framed glasses. A longer nose suits wider frames. Beyond that, the sky is the limit, and creativity is welcome.
In short, the tie, pocket square, belt, watch, cufflinks and glasses make up the urban man’s “arsenal”. This article set out to be both descriptive and prescriptive. One thing, however, is certain: as long as measure is kept, any combination, however unusual, can earn its place.
