In a previous article, we described at length 4 ways for a heavier-set man to slim his silhouette through clothing. Today, the series continues with tricks for shorter men. Men, like women, come in an enormous variety of shapes, and the same man’s build can change very quickly. There is no perfect body, but there are ways to improve on it. The secret is to know one’s shape and adapt one’s dress to it for a flattering visual effect. For the shorter man who would like to bend reality a little, here are 7 tricks men greatly appreciate.
1. Trick 1: why do close-fitting clothes make a man look taller?
Clothes that are too loose make a man look not short but positively diminutive. Clothes cut close to the body slim the figure horizontally and even lengthen it vertically. That will not make him look 1.90 m tall, but the overall picture works in his favour. The clothes should therefore fit and be well cut. For a man too short for what the shops offer, made-to-measure clothing is the necessary alternative.
2. Trick 2: how do vertical stripes lengthen the figure?
Vertical stripes can appear on any garment: shirts, trousers, suits, T-shirts or waistcoats. It is an old trick, but stripes really do lengthen the silhouette. Horizontal lines are to be avoided. Checks are allowed, but call for careful combination. Oversized logos do no favours. Small logos and crests, on the other hand, are fine, even welcome, as they are in proportion with a smaller frame.
3. Trick 3: why does the weight of the cloth matter?
Fabrics should be light and thin. Heavy materials such as fur or full-bodied woollens, and gathers in general, thicken the silhouette and compress the posture. The result is a man who looks noticeably shorter than he is. Layers of heavy clothing are best avoided too, since added horizontal volume takes away from height.
4. Trick 4: how does colour affect stature?
Sharp contrasts between top and bottom, such as the classic white shirt with black trousers, are best avoided. That horizontal line visually “cuts” the silhouette in half and accentuates a small stature. A monochrome or analogous palette (close shades, such as navy with grey) works far better, as it creates an unbroken vertical line and the illusion of height.
5. Trick 5: why are low-rise trousers off limits?
Low-rise trousers are not for the shorter man. Put more bluntly, they are strictly forbidden. Trousers must have a high waist. It lengthens the legs, visually at least. A raised waist tricks the eye into believing the legs start much higher. A high waist automatically means a longer fly.
6. Trick 6: how can the neck enhance stature?
The neck is a slender part of the body with great lengthening power. It pays, therefore, to show it off. Crew-neck T-shirts or, worse still, polo necks make a man look stocky. The answer is V-neck T-shirts, as often as possible. Polo shirts should always be worn with at least the top button undone.
7. Trick 7: which toe shape works best?
Pointed shoes are best left to tall, slim men with a love of Italian style. Shorter men are better served by shorter, rounded toes in the English, Viennese or Budapest style. The same advice applies to ankle boots and boots.
A close cut, the direction of stripes, the weight of the cloth, geometric lines, the trouser waist and the style of shoe, then, are the details that matter most to a shorter man who would like to disguise it a little. Three of these tricks applied together make a difference from the very first day.
