The 5 classic patterns for made-to-measure clothing are Glen check, herringbone, houndstooth, chalk stripe and Tattersall. They have survived the passage of time precisely because each serves a specific context, from business to weekend wear. Unlike passing trends, these 5 patterns rest on objective geometric and chromatic principles, which makes them safe choices at any time.
1. Glen check: who does this pattern suit?
It is also known as the Prince of Wales check. Its most popular version consists of overlapping geometric figures in a mix of red, cream, black and grey lines. It is a bold pattern, ideal for relaxed sport jackets at work or, better still, after work. It should always be paired with plain shirts and ties, alongside chinos or jeans.
2. Herringbone: why is it the most versatile pattern?
Its name comes from its resemblance to the bones of a herring. It is a classic pattern for sport jackets and casual overcoats. It is very popular with American makers. It comes in various colours, most often brown, green and every shade of grey. It sometimes appears in shades of blue, which is rather sexy. Grey herringbone pairs perfectly with a white cotton shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons. A knitted tie or a striped silk one completes the outfit. Since the early 20th century, Continental Europe has adopted this versatile pattern on a wide scale.
3. Houndstooth: how can it be combined without a misstep?
In Britain, it is also known as dogtooth. Its intricate pattern calls for care when paired with other colours or patterns. It comes in many shades and suits sport jackets worn at the office. Stylish as it is, with a secure place in the gallery of classic patterns, it may not be to everyone’s taste.
4. Chalk stripe: what does a striped suit convey?
Vertical stripes are a symbol of capitalist power. They became popular in business from the 1980s. The version with finer, more widely spaced lines is called pinstripe. It is a classic choice for gentlemen who wish to convey authority, self-assurance and respect. As the mainstay of the business dress code, the striped pattern is meant for two- and three-piece suits. Films such as Wall Street (1987) and The Wolf of Wall Street (2013) offer a fair test of whether the pattern is right for a given man.
5. Tattersall: when and how should it be worn?
It is a decorative check regarded as a symbol of English rural life, more than two centuries old. In the United States, it is used above all by Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers on button-down shirts. It suits relaxed weekend outfits. It pairs well with tweed sport jackets and a pair of jeans.
The 5 patterns above, then, have something in common. They have stood the test of time and continue to define men’s style, whatever passing trends may bring. The choice of a pattern is not merely an aesthetic decision but a mark of personality. To see these patterns on a made-to-measure garment, there is coffee waiting in our showroom.
