In the world of men’s accessories, the pocket square often remains in the shadow of the tie. Yet this small detail can completely transform an outfit, adding a touch of personality and style. Many men hesitate to wear a pocket square, believing it’s optional or hard to match. The truth is that it can actually be even more influential than the tie in defining a refined look.
If you’ve ever wondered how to add a layer of sophistication to a formal or casual outfit, the pocket square may be the answer. Unlike the tie, which can seem rigid and conventional, the pocket square offers much more creative freedom. It can vary in colors, patterns, and folding styles.
1. A Brief History of the Pocket Square
The pocket square has a history dating back to the 15th century. Initially, it was worn for utility rather than style. During the Renaissance, nobles used it to wipe their faces and hands. Beginning in the 19th century, the pocket square became a purely decorative accessory, associated with the elegance of city gentlemen. Throughout the last century, it evolved into a symbol of refinement in men’s fashion, increasingly seen in the breast pockets of jackets around the world.
2. Technical Aspects
Pocket squares are always square in shape, with sides between 23 and 30 centimeters. Their edges are usually carefully hemmed, often hand-stitched. The most common materials are silk, cotton, and linen. The fabric mainly determines how the pocket square can be folded. A silk pocket square, for example, will sit differently than a cotton one due to its smooth and soft texture.
3. How to Wear a Pocket Square in Casual Contexts
In a casual setting, the pocket square can add a touch of nonchalance. Go for bold designs with prints or bright colors that subtly contrast with the jacket. Choose a relaxed fold, such as the puff fold, for a more laid-back look. In these situations, coordinate your pocket square with the rest of your outfit, but avoid looking too rigid. A cotton square with floral or geometric prints can be an excellent choice.
4. How to Wear a Pocket Square in Semi-Formal Contexts
For semi-formal occasions, the pocket square should be more discreet. Choose neutral shades or pastel tones that harmonize with the rest of the outfit. The classic fold or square fold is best suited for an elegant appearance. Recommended materials for semi-formal contexts are cotton and linen, as they provide a matte and sober texture. The pocket square should not compete with the tie (if you wear one), but subtly complement the overall look.
5. How to Wear a Pocket Square in Formal Contexts
In formal contexts, the pocket square becomes a refined accessory. Choose a simple one, preferably white and made of fine silk. The “presidential” or flat fold is ideal for evening events. In ultra-formal settings, a white silk pocket square can be paired with a tuxedo or tailcoat. In such cases, the pocket square should not draw attention but rather suggest subtle taste. By the way, we wrote a dedicated article on tuxedos HERE.
6. Pitfalls to Avoid
One of the most common mistakes is mismatching the textures of the pocket square and the jacket. A shiny silk square should not be paired with a tweed jacket, as the materials clash. Textures should be complementary, not contradictory. Another frequent pitfall is wearing a pocket square from the same set as the tie, a combination considered unoriginal. It’s better for the pocket square to have a different shade or a subtly contrasting pattern.
So, the pocket square is not just an aesthetic detail but an accessory that can define an outfit. The choice of fabric, colors, and folding style can completely transform the look of a casual, semi-formal, or formal outfit. Proper coordination and avoiding common mistakes ensure a refined and well-thought-out appearance, no matter the context. Believe it or not, that small piece of fabric—meticulously folded or casually tucked into a jacket pocket—will signal your confidence. While a jacket can often go without a tie, it should never go without a pocket square!
