If for women accessories seem meant to complicate the outfit, for men, accessories are designed precisely to define their wardrobe formula. A man’s accessory kit includes a tie, pocket square, belt, watch, cufflinks, glasses, and sometimes a hat.
Since ancient times, accessories were meant to convey a message about the wearer’s social status. Without diving into historical details, this article will list the accessories that should never be missing from your wardrobe and the mistakes to avoid when wearing them.
1. Tie
The tie is one of the few signs of masculine elegance. The first scarf-ties can be seen on the necks of soldiers fighting on Trajan’s Column. Today, a tie allows men to personalize their outfit. In recent decades, designers have changed its texture, size, and patterns, letting creativity run free.
What you need to know: the higher the level of formality, the more a tie becomes mandatory. Ideal materials are silk for summer and wool for winter. The optimal width should match the jacket lapels for symmetry. Patterns should not be too extravagant (no elephants or sheep!), so classic patterns like jacquard, paisley, polka dots, or regimental stripes are recommended. The knot shape should suit your shirt collar and neck thickness. A bow tie is also a variation of a tie.
2. Belt
This is a hot topic! As I wrote in an article HERE, ideally, your pants should sit perfectly at the waist without a belt. A belt “cuts” the outfit in two, creating disharmony. Originally, a man’s outfit relied solely on the head (hat) and shoulders (suspenders). Belts were only used for soldiers’ weapons or workers’ tools.
If you choose a belt anyway, here’s what you need to know: the higher the level of formality, the less suitable a belt becomes, so reserve it for casual or weekend outfits. Traditional material is calf leather; casual belts can be woven from raffia; belts made of other materials risk looking kitschy. The belt size should match your waist, with the buckle prong ideally going through the middle hole. Of course, shoes should match the belt in color and texture.
3. Pocket Square
A pocket square is indispensable when wearing a jacket or blazer. Originally functional, today it is purely decorative, so knowing the rules of use is key.
What you need to know: the higher the level of formality, the more limited the color range, with classic white being safest. Ideal materials include silk, wool, cotton, or blends. There are many folding styles (triangle, square, messy), but the less the pocket shows the square, the more elegant it appears (and vice versa). Optimal size is 35 x 35 cm for multiple folds. The most common mistake is matching the square with a tie from the same set, which cancels both out and looks lazy. Instead, match it with your shirt, and you’ll never go wrong!
4. Watch and Cufflinks
These are grouped together as they are exclusive jewelry pieces conveying elegance, refinement, and good taste. Both tell a story about the wearer’s status and tend to increase in value over time, often becoming an emotional heirloom from grandfather to grandson.
What you need to know: both watch and cufflinks should match other metals on you (wedding ring, lapel pin). Generally, watches are worn with simple cuffs, and cufflinks with French double cuffs. If wearing both together, choose a dress watch (small and thin). Avoid jewelry that contrasts in size with your wrist.
5. Glasses
Both sunglasses and prescription glasses are accessories. While prescription glasses have a history of several centuries in Europe, sunglasses became strictly aesthetic in the 1930s. Many men wear non-prescription glasses just to complete their look!
What you need to know: your face shape dictates your glasses. Classic shapes include aviator (retro), Ray-Ban classics (Dean Martin style), and rectangular (rimless or smoked lenses). For round or oval faces, choose square or rectangular frames. For square faces, opt for rounded or oval frames. If you have a wide nose, pick rimless or thin-rim glasses. If your nose is long, choose wider frames. Beyond that, creativity is the limit!
In conclusion, the tie, pocket square, belt, watch, cufflinks, and glasses form the urban man’s “arsenal.” This article is both descriptive and normative. One thing is certain: as long as moderation is maintained, any combination—no matter how rare—can work. Good luck!
