The Frenzy of Textile Materials in the Last Thirty Years has Swept Through All Stores. The main goal of these pursuits has been and remains the creation of so-called ideal fabrics: inexpensive, aesthetic, comfortable, easy to maintain, and functional. Today, people look for stain-resistant materials, wrinkle-free silk, wool that doesn’t shrink, fabrics with deodorizing effects, and for the cold-sensitive, knitwear made from zirconium fibers that capture light and retain heat.
You might wonder: can these innovations be integrated into the wardrobe of a gentleman devoted to classic taste refinement? Yes and no. In this article, we will summarize the ideal fabrics that can be chosen for a bespoke suit without betraying fidelity to tradition.
Winter Fabrics
Winter fabrics are considered to be those made from animal-derived fibers which, thanks to the firmness and thickness of the textile thread, can produce a sensation of warmth. Their surface is thick and dense. Flannel and tweed are typical fabrics for the cold season.
These materials are used to make suits, sport jackets, and thicker classic trousers. Rougher fabrics with a harder thread belong to the casual style. The softest fabrics, with a fine surface, are suitable for classic-style items; they pair well with elegant occasion pieces.
Winter fabrics are favorites of English taste and country style. Italian and continental gentlemen prefer medium-weight wool items that can be worn all season. Cashmere can be considered a luxury material of Asian origin. It is particularly used for garments worn over other pieces. It should be noted, however, that cashmere trousers tend to lose their shape slightly. Vicuña is a warm material from the Andes Mountains, used for making elegant winter jackets and coats.
Summer Fabrics
During the warmer months, plant-based materials, as well as blends, play an important role. Lightweight wool fabrics are indispensable for the classic summer wardrobe.
Among the wool fabrics suitable for the hot season, the so-called high-performance material stands out; it is light and soft. Serge is a porous material with a harder surface, while tropical wool is a variant with a rougher, less firm surface. Cool effect materials are recent innovations. Thanks to special treatments, they absorb solar heat.
We recommend making soft, unlined summer suits from cool wool, tropical wool, or serge. More elegant, lined suits are typically made from gabardine or twill. Cotton and linen fabrics, also plant-based, can have different textures. Depending on their construction, they can be smooth or woven, and depending on touch, coarse or fine. From the same linen thread, a light fabric can be obtained with a gentle treatment, while dense processing results in a rough, heavy material.
Are you a clothing enthusiast eager to delve deeper into the secrets of fabrics? Then take a look at some of the most appreciated books in the field, such as Contemporary Men’s Style by Nicholas Schiffer, which also inspired us in composing this article. And to receive free advice on the ideal fabrics for your next suit, don’t hesitate to take the first step HERE.
