For over two centuries, the definition of a men’s suit has remained the same: jacket, vest, and trousers. From a lifeless piece of fabric, through skill and dedication, a master tailor will craft a three-dimensional suit that fits the body perfectly, hugging the frame without restricting movement. Of the three pieces, the jacket is the most complex.
Often, it is not the quality of the material that ruins a jacket. The lack of proportion between its parts, shoulders that are too wide, lapels that are too narrow, pockets cut too high or too low, sleeves that are too loose – these are what truly disrupt a jacket’s harmony. In this article, we’ll explain what makes up an event suit and what to look for when buying one. The drop, lapel, buttonholes, vent, lining, and pockets are the most underestimated parts, so that’s what we’ll focus on!
The Drop
Few Romanian men know what the drop is. The jacket’s line is determined by the drop – that is, the difference between the shoulder and the waistline. A drop 6 indicates a comfortable cut, while a drop 4 means a roomier fit at the abdomen. A drop 7 jacket will be more tapered, and a drop 8 signifies a slim-fit suit. The drop is essential in industrial tailoring to accommodate a wide range of body types. Custom-made tailoring does not have such limitations.
The Lapel
The lapel originated from folding back the two sides of the jacket (once fastened all the way to the neck). In handmade suits, the lapel folds “rounded,” whereas ready-to-wear suits often form a sharp angle with the jacket (like a sheet of paper folded in half). Lapel width has varied greatly over time, but today a lapel of 8–9 centimeters is considered optimal. However, the secret is ensuring the proportion between the lapel and the shoulders creates harmony. If you wear a tie, its width should match the lapel for symmetry.
The Vent
The vent at the back allows freedom of movement when wearing the jacket. There can be a single vent (American vent), giving a more casual look, or double vents (English vent), which slightly formalize the outfit. Italians invented ventless jackets, an innovation that began being broken from the 1960s onward. Following tradition, a classic tuxedo still cannot have a vent. However, modern ceremonial outfits sometimes break this “rule.” One tip: avoid a single vent if you carry extra weight! Single vents can be unforgiving on larger physiques. Men with prominent rear ends should always opt for double vents.
Buttonholes
How many buttonholes should your event suit have? Any master tailor will answer: as many buttonholes as buttons! Yes, you read that right – no button should be sewn on just for decoration. Faux buttons are common in off-the-rack suits. Functional buttonholes, especially hand-stitched ones, are a mark of exceptional craftsmanship. Sleeve buttons are sometimes “kissing buttons,” overlapping slightly. The traditional Italian style suggests leaving the last sleeve button undone, though some men even leave two or three undone.
The Lining
Originally, jackets were fully lined. Today, many are partially or even unlined for added lightness. Their main advantage is freedom of movement while maintaining a crisp look. If you choose the “classic lining,” the best options are viscose or bemberg (cupro), both derived from cellulose fibers and silky to the touch. Avoid synthetic linings—they cause overheating, sweating, and potential skin irritation. Always check the label!
The Pockets
Pockets are primarily functional. There are welted pockets, with piping and flaps, very elegant, and patch pockets, slightly more casual. Flapped pockets were originally worn only during the day. Respecting tradition, your event suit, being ceremonial, should not have flaps.
In conclusion, while the drop, lapel, buttonholes, vent, lining, and pockets are often underestimated, these are the details that make all the difference in any jacket. We’ve written a dedicated article on the vest HERE, and everything you need to know about trousers is HERE. Together, they form your complete event suit!
