In an era where the supreme criterion for choosing clothes is comfort, many men simplify their wardrobe so much that they forget pieces that were once indispensable in any gentleman’s closet: the double-breasted jacket.
At ZAVATE, however, our philosophy is that elegance and refinement do not contradict the idea of comfort. That’s why we’ve decided to champion the double-breasted jacket. In today’s article, we’ll explain what it is, where it comes from, and why you should consider wearing one too!
A double-breasted jacket is essentially a type of jacket with straight-cut panels, one overlapping the other. This piece originated in the naval military sector but gradually migrated into civilian life, entering the canon of men’s fashion during the interwar period. After World War II, the double-breasted jacket somewhat faded into the background but maintained a steady presence up until the 2000s. Today, a man wearing such a jacket is often, and sometimes unfairly, labeled a “dandy.”
How Many Buttons Does a Double-Breasted Jacket Have?
Originally, military personnel wore jackets with eight buttons. Today, it’s generally accepted that an elegant double-breasted jacket should have no more than six buttons, with one always left unfastened. A major advantage here is that the button material can completely change the character of the jacket. Example? Swap ordinary plastic buttons for metal ones and you’ll get a unique blazer, perfect for striking urban outfits!
Lapels
Another defining feature of this type of jacket is the lapel. A double-breasted jacket should always have peaked lapels, with a buttonhole on each lapel. Regular lapels simply do not match the formal nature of the double-breasted jacket.
Fabric and Color
As always, our fabric recommendations depend on occasion and season: all-season wool, flannel, cashmere, or various blends. Heavier fabrics, with a “draped” look, fall best on this jacket. Color choice is yours, but keep in mind that, being a more formal jacket, very loud colors or heavy patterns can ruin its appearance and push it into kitsch territory. Solid, subtle, well-coordinated colors are ideal, leaving room to experiment with accessories.
Tricks and Secrets
Perhaps the greatest advantage of the double-breasted jacket is its ability to mask minor body imperfections—simply by adjusting the spacing between buttons. You can create the illusion of a slimmer waist by widening the distance between buttons… or, conversely, a more robust waist by narrowing it. This proportion game is much harder to achieve with single-breasted jackets. Another tip: being a formal jacket, it looks best when buttoned.
Trendy or Outdated?
This question often pops up among clothing enthusiasts! The fact is, a double-breasted jacket offers the same fabric and color advantages as a regular jacket. Additionally, it allows you to better manipulate body geometry with a combination of peaked lapels and button placement.
Now you know the ideal recipe for attracting attention in the most discreet yet selective way possible. Double-breasted jackets are generally hard to find off the rack, making a visit to your tailor almost mandatory. This can be a small hassle, but the long-term benefits more than justify the effort.
When was the last time you wore a double-breasted jacket?
