Men’s sartorial tradition, especially accessories such as the bow tie, the hat, and suspenders, is fading in the whirlwind of contemporary fashion. In the past, these elements not only completed a man’s outfit but also reflected his status and personality. Today, however, you rarely see these symbols of elegance proudly worn in everyday life.
How did we get here? Are modern fashion trends to blame, or is it a lack of appreciation for the tradition of the past? Let’s explore below the evolution of these accessories and discover ways in which the bow tie, the hat, and suspenders can once again be brought to the forefront—adding refinement and personality to your wardrobe!
The Bow Tie
The bow tie, a clothing accessory with a long history, is in fact a variety of necktie and has its origins in the 17th century, when Croatian mercenaries tied scarves around their necks to fasten their shirts. This fashion was later adopted by French nobility, evolving into what we now call the bow tie. There are several types of bow ties, from the classic self-tie to pre-tied and adjustable versions. They also come in a variety of shapes, often known as classic, diamond, or butterfly bow ties.
The bow tie began to disappear from men’s daily wardrobes in the second half of the 20th century, as casual fashion gradually gained ground. Still, it remains an essential element in certain formal dress codes. For example, the bow tie is indispensable in black tie and white tie attire, associated with occasions such as balls, weddings, and other gala events.
Today, the bow tie has been reintroduced into contemporary fashion by hipsters and vintage enthusiasts, who wear it to add originality and refinement to casual or semi-formal outfits. Thus, the bow tie continues to be a symbol of elegance and personal style, adapting to modernity without losing its classic charm.
The Hat
The origin of the hat is closely tied to the need for protection and social symbolism. From the Phrygian cap to the Indian turban, from the Jewish kippah to the Orthodox monk’s kamilavka, head coverings have served since ancient times as both social status symbols and practical everyday items. Over time, the hat evolved, taking on different shapes and meanings, and became an essential accessory in men’s wardrobes until the first half of the 20th century. Of all the types of hats, the traditional straw-woven one has a long history in the Romanian space. Others were imported fashions of Western inspiration, starting in the second half of the 19th century.
These types of hats are varied, each with its own style and history. Here are a few! 1) The bowler hat, popular since Victorian England. 2) The homburg, with slightly raised edges and a deep crown. 3) The fedora, defined by its wide, soft brim, often associated with film noir detectives. 4) The trilby, similar to the fedora but with a narrower, stiffer brim. 5) The panama hat, made of light straw and perfect for warm climates. 6) The Tyrolean hat, decorated in dark green tones, typical of the Austrian Alps. 7) The Mexican sombrero, with wide brims for sun protection. 8) And of course, the cowboy hat, symbol of the American Wild West.
Unfortunately, in recent decades, hats have been almost completely forgotten. Today, they are worn only by men at some protocol events and sometimes at traditional horse-riding competitions. Nowadays, men settle for caps, once worn only in casual settings or by tennis ball boys. A hat’s character is determined by the shape of its crown, the width and flexibility of its brim, and the color of the material. An important detail is the crown’s finish, which can be smooth or indented. The most common materials used for hats are felt, rabbit hair, plant fibers (silk, straw), and wool (tweed).
Besides craftsmanship, the narrow or wide ribbon—leather or silk—that decorates the crown defines its style. Elegant hats are those with rigid structure, high crown (as in the top hat), and wide brim. By contrast, patterned, soft hats with narrower brims convey a casual aspect. Today, hats have found their place again in formal dress codes: gala events, military parades, and official ceremonies. They also work in casual contexts, where they add a stylish edge.
Suspenders
The origin of suspenders dates back to the 18th century, when they were first used in France to hold up trousers. Back then, known as tirants, they were made from ribbons and attached to trousers with buttons. Over time, suspenders evolved into an indispensable clothing accessory in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Traditionally, they were crafted from elegant materials like silk and wool, often featuring patterns that harmonized with the rest of the outfit.
Suspenders were widely worn with so-called colonial trousers (off-white), designed with a high waistband and no belt loops. Generally, suspenders are made from elegant, semi-elastic fabric, sometimes covered in silk. Their length is adjustable, fastening at the back with one pair of buttons and at the front with two pairs. The color and patterns of suspenders can harmonize with the tie—but should never be identical! Wearing suspenders is mandatory with formal outfits, where belts are forbidden. A tip: white suspenders go with a tailcoat, black suspenders with a tuxedo—but that doesn’t mean you can’t wear white suspenders with black tie.
Suspenders began to vanish from men’s daily wardrobes in the mid-20th century, as belts became the primary accessory for holding up trousers. Still, suspenders have not disappeared completely! For corpulent men, belts cut unflatteringly across the waistline, so suspenders are recommended in any circumstance. Moreover, suspenders can successfully be integrated into casual dress codes—such as a rolled-up shirt paired with chinos and white sneakers.
In conclusion, the bow tie, hat, and suspenders, once indispensable, have largely been replaced by modern trends. However, these classic accessories have not disappeared entirely and can add elegance and personality to the contemporary wardrobe. By integrating them into both formal and casual dress codes, you can keep tradition alive while combining classic refinement with modern style—creating unique and memorable outfits.
