The world of sneakers is vast… and keeps growing as society dresses more and more casually. Still, narrowing things down, we’re only interested here in those leather sneakers, which can be integrated into a coherent, style-based wardrobe rather than a fashion-driven one. This earned them, overseas, the name dress sneakers.
In this article, we’ll answer concisely the questions clients have asked us over time. How do you recognize them? Do they work with a suit? Do they have a future, or are they just a trend? Here’s what you need to know.
Many men buy tennis shoes thinking they’re buying sneakers. In short, sneakers have a relatively thin sole. Structurally, the vamp sits under the quarters, which open like a “waistcoat,” similar to Derby shoes. They have wide laces, arranged not in an X but parallel across the instep. Generally, the upper is made of leather in various colors, with white, brown, navy, and black being the most common. Inside, they are lined — again with leather. And at the base, on the exterior, they have the trademark sidewall, most often in white.
What they don’t have? They don’t have details that distract, such as logos or stripes, keeping their appearance “clean.” The company that launched the first sneaker model in the world, called Achilles, was Common Projects from New York. This happened around 2010.
Do they work with a suit? A first answer would be NO. Sneakers belong to the smart casual category, which excludes suits. Pairing an expensive, custom-made suit with sneakers simply doesn’t look good. Sneakers are on the same formality level as loafers, so that’s where you need to insist. Chinos, sweaters, or polo shirts are exactly what you need to integrate your new sneakers successfully. It’s also worth noting that they can work with shorts (up to the knee), but with discretion, to avoid straying from classic dress conventions. And last but not least — wear socks! Showing the ankle is an eminently feminine gesture.
Still, a second, less strict answer would be YES, BUT… Under certain conditions, sneakers can be worn with a suit, but keep in mind that you won’t look as formal. They look best with white sneakers paired with a navy suit. Ideally, though, wear a white T-shirt or turtleneck instead of a shirt. Try it and see what works for you.
Do sneakers have a future or are they just a trend? In principle, a trend lasts about a year, though some can extend to two or even three years. Considering that sneakers in their current form have been on the market for over a decade, the outlook favors them. Their versatility gives them staying power and allows them to refine over time. Utility, comfort, and lower cost are additional advantages in their favor.
So now you know not only practically but also theoretically what sneakers are, how to recognize them, what to pair them with, and what their prospects are. Any new clothing item requires time to settle into the canons of tradition. Until then, the difficulty of fitting it into a category often leads to excess. In the case of sneakers, wearing them with a suit without socks is one such misstep. As always, discernment, good taste, and refinement bring you closer to style — or push you toward kitsch.
