Do you have several suits in your closet, but you’re not sure if they’re worth keeping? In this article, I’ll explain the criteria that define the quality of a suit. Thus, a good suit is the result of three elements:
1. A fine fabric with structure
There are many kinds of fabrics, but those for suits are mainly wool. Since wearers have desired finer cloth with better structure, the finest fibers have been selected and processed in ingenious ways.
The fineness of a fabric is measured by the thickness of the fibers used to make it. A cloth is considered fine if the fibers it’s made of are thinner than 18.75 microns in diameter. This thickness was labeled Super 100’s. Luxury fabrics use fibers under 17 microns in diameter, reaching as low as 13.75 microns. Still, past a certain point, ultra-fine fabrics become particularly difficult to maintain.
The structure of fabrics comes from ingenious processing methods. In crease-resistant cloths, the threads from which the fabric is woven are twisted from two, three, four, or even five strands; after twisting, they are set at high temperatures.
There are many renowned mills in Europe that have preserved tradition and innovated constantly for more than a century. Among them are Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Drago, and others.
2. Construction through stitching
Like an architectural structure, making a suit involves both structural elements and detailing.
A suit has several layers. There’s the outer fabric (the main material), the inner lining, and the canvases between the two (which give structure). These can be constructed in three different ways.
The first is fused construction. The canvases inside are made of synthetic fibers with adhesive, heat-bonded under pressure at high temperatures; in practice, they stick to the fabric of the suit and stiffen it. This method is the simplest but offers lower durability over time, and the body breathes less in this type of suit.
The second method is where the jacket fronts are attached to the canvases by stitching, while the rest of the pieces are fused. This method of construction is a high standard of quality, giving excellent structure at key points.
The third method of construction is fully canvassed, where the canvases inside are sewn entirely to the outer fabric. This technique is found in the best suits worldwide and is often done by hand.
3. Tailoring to measure
In technical terms, tailoring refers to a process of construction and involves designing and cutting fabrics for sewing; since it’s crucial in a suit, it must be mentioned. The tailoring of a custom suit can be done by modifying a base pattern suit or by drafting it entirely from the client’s measurements.
The first technique, where the client tries on a ready-made suit that fits best and asks for certain modifications, is called made-to-measure. It is the most efficient solution for custom suits but does not fit all body types.
The second method, where the client’s measurements are taken and the tailor drafts a unique pattern from scratch (as in the image), is called bespoke. This approach is more of an art and involves a lot of handwork, found in details such as hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-stitched linings, and much more.
The traditional method of making a bespoke suit is far from what one might call efficient. It requires a lot of time and attention, both from the tailor and the client, to achieve a perfect bespoke suit.
Between the demands of traditional Bespoke and the drawbacks of an overly commercial made-to-measure, our S-Bespoke service is the ingenious method that meets all requirements. Take a look HERE. And if you, too, want a good suit, we’ll be waiting for you with a coffee at Strada Frumoasă 52.
