How many times, when choosing ready-to-wear products, have you realized that they need major tailoring? This happens because the shape and proportions of your body don’t match standard commercial patterns. Add to that the sellers’ tendency to push sizes that don’t flatter you, just to get rid of old stock. For an inexperienced man, this makes things even more complicated…
Not everything that “fits” actually fits your body, even if you have a more athletic build. The issue becomes more serious if you usually dress in business attire. How should clothes fit to highlight your best features? We answer that question in this article!
1. The Jacket
If the jacket covers your back properly, there’s a good chance it’s the right size. If it’s too short, it “cuts” your torso; if it’s too long, it “swallows” your legs. The collar of the jacket should sit perfectly against the shirt collar. Any gap means the jacket is too big. Regarding the waist, you should see an hourglass effect in the mirror. If not, the jacket is too loose and needs to be taken in. Conversely, if it’s too tight, the waist creases will form an X, which is undesirable… In either case, the jacket’s overall appearance is compromised. Finally, the shoulders should end exactly at your shoulder line to avoid the “sailor epaulet” effect.
2. The Shirt
When choosing a shirt, the collar should not be tight around your neck. You should be able to fit a finger between your neck and the collar, moving it freely—this is the correct fit. The shirt collar should extend slightly beyond the jacket collar for symmetry with the cuffs. Sleeve length is a classic problem—they’re often too long. They shouldn’t extend more than 2 centimeters beyond the jacket sleeve when standing upright. Cuff buttons should allow free arm movement, and your watch should sit comfortably under the cuff.
3. Trousers
When trying on trousers, the rise should not sag. The trousers should make you feel comfortable, not just look loose—there’s a difference! Sit on a chair while testing them. The hem should fall slightly above the shoe. When you stand, only a very fine crease should appear at the contact with the shoe. “Accordion-style” trousers with multiple folds at the bottom are a clear sign they need shortening by a tailor.
4. The Tie
The tie should reach exactly to the waistband of your trousers or the belt buckle if you wear one. The knot should not choke you, but it should also cover the top button of your shirt completely. Even though there are over fourteen different ways to tie a tie today, ensure the knot size fits perfectly within the triangle created by your shirt collars.
5. The Coat
It’s essential that the coat, overcoat, or jacket worn over a suit is one size larger than the suit. Sleeves should end precisely at the wrist (not below), and the shoulders and back should fall perfectly straight, just like the jacket.
6. Shoes
Someone once said that the modern man spends two-thirds of his life on his feet, so he should have properly fitting shoes! Correct shoe size depends on the shoe type. You cannot wear the same size in sneakers as in dress shoes. The biggest errors often occur with men who have orthopedic issues. If you suffer from flat feet, always choose shoes with a special insole for support. On the other hand, if you have a high instep, opt for slip-on loafers, derby shoes, or high-last Oxfords. Neglecting this advice can worsen existing foot problems.
In short, jacket, shirt, trousers, tie, coat, and shoe sizes must be carefully chosen by any man who values his appearance. Size is the first thing people notice. The pattern becomes visible up close, and the material is felt only when touched—but the size is apparent from a distance! Make sure you know your measurements well when making clothing purchases. If you find ready-to-wear options frustratingly inadequate, take inspiration from our custom-made collection HERE.
